Home Plumbing Projects – Making the Connections with Pipe

A weekend plumbing job or repair? At some point in time with the positions and positioning of your new plumbing fixture or its pipes established you will be good and ready fro that moment of truth  to make the final “connection” on the hook up. Its one big test of skill, patience on the completion of your home handyman projection and your level of thoroughness and attention to detail.

It can be said, that in the plumbing and heating trades, that your procedures are mainly determined by the kind of piping that you must tap into.  Start with the “drain stack”.  If you are installing back-to-back fixtures, remove the existing connection and cut out the TY fitting in the stack, replacing it with a sanitary cross. Otherwise simply cut out a stack sections and install a TY.  Cut a copper or plastic stack with a special pipe-cutting tool with a hacksaw, an older style cast-iron stack with a special specialized for that purpose pipe cutting tool.  The replacement fittings are easy to install, since they are clamped, soldered or cemented into position, then fitted with adapters if necessary.

Supply-line connections to copper or plastic risers are made similarly, by installing new T’s. If your home has steel or brass supply pipes, the procedure is more complex, requiring the removal of the entire length of a riser between the two fittings, and its replacement with a section of copper piping.  In most cases you will find such fittings close above and below the point that you wish to tap. However, if the nearest riser fittings are a floor above and a floor below, you may have to open walls in several rooms.

In some cases you can avoid such complications by tapping supply lines at a distance from the fixture – there is no restriction on the length of supply connections, as there is on drain connections.  For instance, you can take advantage of exposed connections in the basement where you use tap-on or compression fittings without concern about a hidden leak or leaks.

Finally the remaining steps are routine connections made in the open, where you have plenty of room to work. Keep hot and cold supply lines separated by at least 6 inches.  And take care to support all piping and pipings with appropriate hangers – those for copper should fit snugly to minimize vibration noise, while those for plastic is a bit loose to accommodate expansion and contraction.

This article provided by Maxwell B. Labby of Furnasman One Hour Heating Air Conditioning Winnipeg and Fort Garry Lindenwoods Wpg Manitoba Power Vac

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