Always practice common sense whenever working with power tools. And, when working in the woodshop, follow these ten key safety tips, which you may want to print and post on your woodshop wall.

1. Wear safety equipment. It may not be glamorous or comfortable, but safety equipment is absolutely essential. Safety glasses should be worn at all times when in the woodshop. This is true even when you are not actively working with power tools. Always wear safety glasses! Hearing protection may also necessary when working with high-volume tools such as routers. Dust masks and face shields can help to protect your lungs, particularly if your woodworking shop does not have a dust collector.
2. Dress safely. Your clothes should not be loose enough to get caught in your equipment. Remove any loose or hanging jewelry and watches. Make sure that your clothing is sturdy enough to protect your body from any flying debris such as woodchips. And never wear sandals in the woodshop.
3. Stay organized and focused. When using power tools, exercise some good old fashioned common sense. Clutter is a disaster waiting to happen, so keep your work area clean and free of debris that could cause an accident. Never work in the woodworking shop after consuming medication or alcohol. If you’re interrupted in the middle of a project, make sure to reach a safe stopping point before moving on to other things, and always secure the shop if you must leave it.
4. Check your power cords. Check all cords for damage or fraying (this is particularly important when using older machinery such as vintage table saws). Never use a power tool with a damaged or ungrounded cord. You might also consider limiting yourself to one extension cord for your workshop, which will require you to unplug each piece of equipment before moving on to the next stage of your project.
5. Before cutting, check for metal. Examine the wood for any metal objects such as nails, staples, or screws before beginning your project, and again immediately before making the first cut. Not only could these items cause serious injury through saw kickback, but they can also damage your equipment.
6. Never use a dull power tool. Dull saw blades or drill bits can cause binding or kickback and present a potential hazard. They also can result in sloppy work, so it is best to replace accessories promptly and inspect them for wear or damage before each use.
7. Check all guards. All of the guards and anti-kickback devices should be in working order. Note that some older equipment, such as the vintage table saws referred to above, may not have sufficient guards.
8. Disconnect the power before changing the blade. When changing miter saw blades, band saw blades, etc., completely disconnect the power. This insures that an accidental bump won’t turn the machine on.
9. Let the blade stop completely. Before taking any action with a power tool, let the blade (or drill bit, etc.) stop completely. Take this precaution even if your action doesn’t directly involve the blade. Slow-moving blades can still cause injury, and it only takes a small slip to come into contact with one.
10. Use a pushstick. Don’t reach over the blade (in the case of table or miter saws) or past it (in the case of band saw blades) to collect waste. Use a pushstick instead. Never let your hands get close enough to the blade for an accident to happen, even if the power is off.

The sheer cost of woodworking supplies, not to mention the time and energy it takes to set up a woodshop, makes thorough planning essential.

However, having a well-built and equipped shop is well worth the time.

The following are things you may want to consider as you begin to establish your own fine woodworking shop, whether it be in a garage, basement, or dedicated building.

Essential tools for the home woodworking shop

• Circular saw – This versatile saw should be top on your list of major purchases. Circular saws are both powerful and portable. Look for higher horsepower models, which are less likely to bind.
• Compound miter saw – The compound miter allows for more precise beveling and angling in comparison to the circular saw. It’s advisable to build or purchase a miter saw stand in conjunction with your saw.
• Drill press – The drill press allows for deeper and more precise holes than are created with a power drill. A drill press vise is one can’t-miss accessory. The drill press vise allows you to secure relatively small items for drilling and can also be used in cutting offset holes.
• Jigsaw – Cutting curves and circles is easy with the right jigsaw. Orbital-action models, in which the blades are angled slightly upwards, often make smoother cuts for fine woodworking.
• Power drill – Cordless drills are handy for small spaces (no tangled cords) and don’t take up precious wall sockets, but corded versions often have variable speeds, a feature that is generally not available in cordless models.
• Random orbital sander – Although this tool doesn’t work with plain sandpaper like palm models, its random sanding pattern reduces sanding marks.
• Router – Routers are available in stationary and plunge versions. Look for a model with a motor speed of at least two horsepower and variable speed settings.
• Table saw – Because the table saw is so versatile, it makes sense to splurge on this item. Look for a model that allows fine tuning of the table saw fence to insure high quality work. A removable table saw fence can also increase the versatility of your bench, allowing you to work with larger pieces if necessary.

Other woodworking supplies you can’t do without

• Clamps – You can never have enough clamps.
• Safety equipment – Whatever you buy; whatever you do; make sure it’s done safely. At absolute minimum, wear safety glasses.
• Saw horses – Saw horses can be made or purchased for a relatively low price, and they’re incredibly versatile.
• Shop vac – Because woodworking equals a lot of dust.
• Woodworking bench – Make sure to select a bench with a vise to hold projects steady.

Layout and organization tips for the home woodworking shop

• Storage is the key to having an organized wood shop. Make use of old furniture, hunt down some garage sale bargains, or build some cabinetry yourself. Old dressers or bookcases can be used to organize and store your woodworking tools without shelling out a bundle for fancy storage equipment. Hang some pegboard and use hooks to hang hand tools you use most often. Pot hooks are a relatively cheap and sturdy option. Magnetic knife racks can also be used to hang smaller items.
• Develop designated work areas for larger equipment or tools you use frequently, such as a miter saw stand. Arrange equipment so that it is easy to move from one station to another. Consider creating a floor plan to plot out what should go where, and always plan for future purchases. Make sure that the floor plan allows for easy manipulation of materials around the shop.
• Make sure that all work surfaces have adequate lighting, which will not be blocked when you’re working on a project. A portable magnetic light can help provide focused lighting throughout the shop.
• Electric receptacles must be grounded, and sufficient electrical service should be available at each workstation.
  If the ventilation in the shop isn’t sufficient, consider placing a household fan in one of the shop windows.
• As your shop grows, you may want to consider investing in a dust collector that gathers the dust right at the machine.
• If your woodworking shop is located in your home or attached garage, consider whether noise and dust will be problems.

But these days you’ll find dozens of affordable power washer models from which to choose. And since you’ll own your own, you’ll also find a lot more uses for it around your garage and in the yard! A power or pressure washer can help cut your cleaning time drastically, and it has the added benefit of using approximately 80% less water than a garden hose.

How a Power Washer Works

Power washers use a combination of water pressure and water flow to remove dirt and grime.

This combination allows for easier, more efficient cleaning in comparison to a bucket, hose, and elbow grease.

Detergent and heated water can also increase the cleaning power of a pressure washer.

Selecting a Power Washer

Power washers come in gas and electric models. Gas power washers are generally more powerful but can only be used outside due to the carbon monoxide emissions.

Gas power washers are also generally more expensive in comparison to electric power washers. Electric power washers are generally smaller, more portable, and less powerful than gas powered models.

The easiest way to compare power washers is by looking at their cleaning power (sometimes abbreviated as “CP” or “CPU”). Cleaning power is calculated using water pressure (PSI or pounds per square inch) and water flow (GPM or gallons per minute). The higher the water pressure and flow, the greater the cleaning power: CP = PSI x GPM

Lower-end washers will have a CP around 4000, mid-range washers around 9000, and higher end washers can top out at over 16,000 CP.

Uses for a Power Washer

Sure, you can use a pressure washer to strip grime from your home, but is that enough to justify the purchase? There are other uses for power washers that you may not have thought of, such as:

• Cars & Trucks
• Boats & Jet Skis
• ATVs & Motorcycles
• Driveways & Sidewalks
• Decks & Patios
• Fences
• Gutters
• Pool Areas
• Barbeque Grills

Tips on Using a Power Washer

• Inspect the area to be washed. Remove any furniture, loose decorative items, or anything else that could be damaged. If you are pressure washing a house, look for any loose siding, cracks, or crevasses where water can get inside. It’s advisable to fix these problems before washing to prevent water damage to your home.
• Consider using a detergent specifically designed for power washers. This is particularly important if you are working in areas with plants, animals, or children. Make sure that what you are using is safe.
• Don’t run the washer without the water supply. This will damage the motor.
• Test the washer on an inconspicuous area before moving on to the rest of the project.
• Select the right nozzle for your job. The nozzle will affect the flow rate and water pressure. Adjustable nozzles are often the best choice.
• Don’t get too close! You could damage the object you are cleaning. Start by standing about ten feet away from the object, spray over the surface a few times, and then stop. Check to see if the area is clean and look for any damage. Adjust your distance accordingly.
• Brush attachments can help loosen caked-on dirt and ground-in grime.
• Don’t spray directly at windows, plants, vents, electrical boxes, or light fixtures. The water pressure could damage them.
• Never aim the washer at people or allow children to use the washer.
• It’s advisable to wear goggles or safety glasses to protect your eyes from any flying debris.
• When cleaning siding, make sure to point downwards to avoid breaking the siding off or getting water underneath it.
• Spray back and forth, not up and down.
• Start at the top and work downward to prevent streaks.
• Squeeze the trigger before storing the washer to relieve the pressure in the hose.

Nail guns do not use individual nails. Instead, the nails are mounted in long strips (similar to a stick of staples) or in a plastic carrier coil, depending on the design of the nail gun. Some strip nailers use a clipped head so the nails can be placed closer together, which necessitates less frequent reloading.

Nail guns vary in the length and gauge (thickness) of nails they can drive.

Nail guns also have many advantages over hammers as they quickly and repeatedly drive the fastener and consistently set the nail head at, or below, the surface. Most nail guns can be set to operate in either of two modes:

In one mode, the nail gun must first be pressed against the work piece and the trigger then depressed. One nail is then fired and the trigger must be released before the next nailing cycle can commence.

In the other mode, the trigger is depressed before the nail gun is brought into contact with the work piece. Then, each time the nail gun is pressed against the work piece, a nailing cycle commences and one nail is fired. By repeatedly "bumping" the nail gun against the workpiece, any number of nails can be rapidly fired.

Nearly  37,000 people every year go to emergency rooms with injuries from nail guns. Forty percent of those injuries occur to consumers. Nail gun injuries have tripled from 1991 to 2005. A recent survey shows that foot and hand injuries are among the most common.

The framing nailer is typically used in framing rooms, closets and other structures.

Electromagnetism, compressed air, gases such as butane or propane, or, for powder-actuated tools, a small explosive charge, usually drive the nail gun. Most framing nailers are driven by compressed air.

Framing Nailers do not use individual nails. Instead, the nails are mounted in long strips (similar to a stick of staples) or in a plastic carrier coil, depending on the design of the nail gun.

Some strip nailers use a clipped head so the nails can be placed closer together, which necessitates less frequent reloading. Nail guns vary in the length and gauge (thickness) of nails they can drive.

Framing nailers have many advantages over hammers as they quickly and repeatedly drive the fastener and consistently set the nail head at, or below, the surface.

Nearly 37,000 people every year go to emergency rooms with injuries from framing nailers. Forty percent of those injuries occur to consumers. Nail gun injuries have tripled from 1991 to 2005. A recent survey shows that foot and hand injuries are among the most common.

As with all power tools, be sure to use caution when using your framing nailer and follow the manufacturer’s instructions and safety precautions!