Until sub zero (or sweltering) weather, a three-digit utility bill or chilly drafts start to come, and you start thinking about it a lot!

At home, you ponder whether it’s worth the time and expense to add it to your ceilings, walls and basement.

At the store, you ponder which type, thickness, width and density to buy. And when you install it, you wonder just how good is “good enough.”

Careful installation increases the insulation’s R-Value by over 20 Percent. Leaving 5 percent of a wall uninsulated will reduce the entire wall’s R-value (resistance to heat flow) by 20 percent. It doesn’t take much more time to install fiberglass insulation properly.

Install wall insulation so it completely fills each cavity side to side and top to bottom. But remember, packing and compressing insulation reduces its effectiveness.

Insulation is rated according to its R-value, or resistance to heat loss: the higher the R-value, the higher the insulating value. Standard fiberglass insulation has an R-value of about 3.5 per inch of thickness; this provides an insulating value of R-11 for 2×4 walls and R-19 for 2×6 walls.

But if you’re serious about energy savings, you can buy better-performing products. High-density types of fiber-glass insulation, with more fibers and air spaces per square inch, offer R-values of up to 4.25 per inch. Some provide R-15 for 2×4 walls and R-21 for 2×6 walls.

There’s also high-density insulation for ceilings and attics. You’ll wind up paying more and in many cases you’ll need to special-order it, but high-density insulation delivers up to 35 percent more insulating value per inch.

The first 3 in. of insulation you add to a bare ceiling or wall will yield huge savings. Adding another 3 in. will increase energy savings, but not to as great a degree. For charts showing the Department of Energy’s optimal amounts of insulation to install, go to www.certainteed.com or www.owenscorning.com. Their recommendations are based on climate, fuel costs and other factors. Adding more will give you a diminishing return on your investment.

The payback period for retro-fitting insulation varies greatly, but studies show that added insulation usually pays for itself in saved energy costs within 5 to 10 years. One typical two-story Minnesota home was fitted with blown-in wall insulation, additional ceiling insulation and rim joist insulation at a cost of $1,890. The result was a $325 savings in yearly heating costs, which represents a payback period of slightly less than six years.

Pay back in more temperate areas takes longer, but remember that insulation reduces air conditioning costs too.

When You Insulate Attics and Crawlspaces, You’ve Got to Vent Them Too! Since insulation changes the way attics and crawl spaces “breathe,” it’s critical that you maintain or install proper ventilation.

At first, it seems odd to add insulation for warmth and then purposely create ventilation “holes” for cold air to enter. But if you don’t do this, you’re setting yourself up for moisture problems.

Make sure to follow these steps in installing your attic insulation:

• Lay plywood across the joists and hang a temporary work light. You should leave insulation in its wrapper until you're ready to use it. Insulation is packaged in a compressed state and expands greatly when the wrapper is opened.
• Begin laying batts or blankets at the outer edge of the attic space and work towards the center (this will allow more headroom in the center of the attic for whatever cutting and fitting there is to be done). Lay in long runs first and use the leftovers for shorter spaces. Insulation should be installed around wiring taking care not to disturb it. Be sure to butt insulation tightly at joints for a complete barrier to heat flow.
• Insulation should extend far enough out to cover the top plate of the walls but should not block the flow or air from the eave vents. For best results, install ventilation baffles at the inside of the eaves.
• Insulation must be kept three inches away from recessed light fixtures unless the fixture is marked 'I.C.' (insulated ceiling) – a fixture designed for direct insulation contact. Insulation placed over an unrated fixture, like a recessed light, may cause it to overheat and start a fire. Fill the space between a masonry chimney and wood framing with noncombustible material such as unfaced Fiberglas insulation. If you are insulating around a metal flue, do not place the insulation flush to the flue. Always leave at least a three-inch space.
• Ends of batts should be cut to fit snugly around cross bracing. If a second layer of insulation is needed and the cavity has been completely filled, the additional layer should be placed at right angles to the joists.
• When adding to existing insulation, unfaced Fiberglass blanket is recommended. If the unfaced type is not available, use the faced type but remove the vapor barrier or slash it freely with a knife (then install the insulation with the slashed facing down). Do not leave faced insulation exposed. The facings on standard kraft- and foil-faced insulations will burn.

The air we breathe inside our homes need to be fresh and clean. The quality of your air indoors however depends if you have clean air ducts. These air passages convey cooled or heated air inside your homes. As air comes from outside, dust, mites and other microscopic dirt can find their way inside air ducts.  Filters though prevent these from getting indoors.

These materials however get stuck and accumulate inside air ducts. Over time, removing them becomes necessary. Otherwise, you’d be breathing unclean air inside your home where you spend most of your time. Who would have thought that unclean air ducts can bring peril to your family? That’s clear and present danger right in your very own home.

As materials accumulate inside air ducts, they may react with other elements in the air particularly moisture, bringing about harmful results adversely affecting air quality. Resulting fumes which may be harmful exposes you to danger. If such are odorless and colorless, you won’t even know that you are already at risk. Moisture inside air ducts may even cause the growth of harmful micro-organisms.

Why Regular Air Duct Cleaning Matters

Accumulated materials act as the medium. These organisms may then release toxic elements that go inside your home. Your air becomes deteriorated. It may cause various respiratory sicknesses and allergic reactions. Your health is a perfect reason why you must have clean air ducts.

Another issue you should also consider is how materials could possibly block air from flowing inside your home. Keeping your air ducts clean makes your heating and air conditioning system as efficient as possible, reducing energy costs.

It may seem that it can take forever before these minute materials totally block air passage. But accumulated materials inside won’t immediately stop air ducts from functioning. So much material must first accumulate before they clog your air ducts. Even so, air may not be totally blocked as it can still force its way to your home. In this case, the amount of energy needed increases in forcing air through clogged air ducts. The efficiency of these ducts goes down when these are obstructed.

Heating and Air Conditioning Efficiency

More power is needed for an air conditioning or heating system to force air through blocked air ducts.  In many cases, cooling or heating takes time before desired temperatures are attained.

What could be worse is that your desired temperature may not be attained at all even if maximum power is used. Your air conditioning or heating system may even bog down completely. This happens when compressors are forced to work at maximum capacities. You can just imagine how much it would cost you if you don’t have your air ducts cleaned.

So how often must you have your air ducts cleaned? Some make it a point to have theirs cleaned on a periodic basis. This is one sure way to have clean air ducts all the time. It may be costly however to have it based on schedule. To save on maintenance cost, you may have your air ducts cleaned based on necessity. But you should consider certain factors to ensure that the quality of your air always remains in good condition.

One factor is the location of your house. If you’re located in a place where dusts abound, your air ducts should be cleaned more frequently.

Moisture and Other Accumulation in Air Ducts

A location having frequent rainfall will also necessitate a more frequent cleaning of air ducts. More rainfall means more chances of moisture finding their way inside your air ducts. Another factor is the presence of animals or household pets near or inside your home. These are sources of mites and loose fur which may find their way inside air ducts. More animals could mean more frequent air duct cleaning.

Another important factor is the age of your air ducts. Older air conditioning or heating systems generally require more frequent cleaning. The number of occupants of your home is also a factor. The more family members there are, the more frequent air ducts should be cleaned.

You can see that air duct cleaning must become part of your home maintenance program. If health considerations take priority, air duct cleaning should take priority as well. It may be costly. But its returns in terms of health benefits will far outweigh the costs.

Some shady contractors wishing to cut corners in order to keep the bottom line low for their clients will leave out these options often, but pipe insulation is essential for the performance and long service-life of piping systems.

So it is often these kinds of additions that homeowners will want to consider doing themselves. Pipes and ductwork need insulation just as much as your exterior walls do.

Poorly insulated ductwork can lose heat, reduce air conditioning effectiveness and cost you money in heating and cooling bills. Not to mention the fact that if they freeze and burst, those repair bills are often astronomically high. Un-insulated pipes usually sweat, leave watermarks and make your water heater work overtime.

Naturally, pipe insulation is most important in areas where there is the potential for pipes to freeze and burst. But even in the southeast, where I live, we have days and nights below freezing and people’s pipes burst.

The cost of both piping and insulation is small relative to the damages when a pipe breaks. While it is obvious that outdoor pipes (under the porch, etc) need to be insulated, other pipes can still freeze even if they run in a temperature-regulated part of the house.

If the electricity goes out for several hours, or you go on vacation and don't expect the temperature to drop as much as it does, you may return to a huge mess. Proper pipe insulation can reduce, if not eliminate, the chance of your pipes freezing.

Insulation has a tremendous impact on your home's energy use. With rising energy prices, as well as environmental concerns, it is becoming even more important to pay attention to how you consume energy.

Proper insulation improves the thermal efficiency of your home, limiting heat transfer and providing a vapor barrier against moisture. Proper piping and insulation materials also eliminate condensation formation, which accelerates pipe deterioration.

Fortunately, insulating your pipes is a simple home improvement job that even someone like me can do.

To insulate your pipes, you will need:

• Pipe insulation
• Duct tape
• Rag
• Mild cleanser
• Scissors
• Utility knife
• Mask
• Gloves
• Safety goggles

Pipe Insulation Steps:

1. Begin by removing any dirt or grease from the pipes with a rag and mild cleanser. Make sure you allow the pipes to dry thoroughly before continuing with the installation.
2. Choose the insulation. Foam, foil or fiberglass insulation can be wrapped around the pipe with a 1/2" overlap. Secure each end of the insulation with duct tape. If you are working with Fiberglass insulation be sure to wear safety goggles and gloves.
3. Make sure to cover the entire pipe when wrapping around corners and bends and wrap with duct tape. When working with fiberglass insulation, wrap the fiberglass in plastic to keep the pipes from dripping condensation.
   The easiest pipe insulation to install is tubular sleeve insulation. It comes in a variety of sizes and is the easiest to install. Simply cut the sleeve to length and wrap it around the pipe. Be sure to duct tape the seam where the pipes meet.
4. When insulating around corners or T-joints, cut slits or make miter angles where necessary, and secure these areas with duct tape.

Insulating cold-water pipes will prevent them from dripping condensation, and insulating hot-water pipes will prevent costly heat loss and save on energy bills.

Caulking and weather-stripping prevents air from entering or escaping the home, and also prevents the spread of moisture around pipes, drains, and faucets.

Replacement weather-stripping is usually available at most building supply and hardware stores.

The most popular types of weather stripping include foam rubber, EPDM rubber, felt, bent metal, and plastic.

When selecting weatherstripping, you need to consider the durability of the material as well as what would work best for what you are weather stripping. For example: bent brass and aluminum is found on many older doors and are durable, but they conduct heat easily, don't usually seal that well, and are easily damaged by being bent the wrong way or through poor installation.

Bent metal weather-stripping is also one of the most expensive weather-stripping materials.

Bent plastics are similar to the bent metals, but are less expensive. They are also less durable.

Most rubber and foam materials stay flexible for years, are inexpensive, easily replaced and effectively seal air leaks. Don’t forget to choose the appropriate door sweeps and thresholds for the bottom of the doors as well.

For the best possible results from your investment, you should make certain that the weather-stripping material will stay flexible under extreme weather conditions. Also be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
In general, you should: 1) weatherstrip the entire door jamb; 2) apply one continuous strip along each side; 3) make sure the stripping meets tightly at the corners; and 4) use a thickness that, when the door closes, the stripping tightly presses between the door and the door jamb without making the door too hard to close.

Before you begin the installation of the weather-stripping you need to conduct a visual inspection to locate caulk that is cracked or deteriorated and weather-stripping that has gaps in the seal.

You may also be able to tell if a window or door needs better weather stripping by trying to rattle the door or window, or by looking around the edges to see if any light penetrates through the cracks.

In order to install your weather-stripping you will need to purchase caulk. Caulk comes in cartridges that will be inserted into half barrel caulking guns.

For small caulking jobs, you can find it in small squeeze tubes or ropes. Expect to use about a half-cartridge per window or door and four cartridges for the foundation sill, and at least one more for around faucets, vents, pipes, and electrical outlets.

Types of caulk generally used on houses include:

• Oil or resin-based caulk – This is the least expensive caulk, but also the least effective. It is readily available and will bond to most surfaces. It tends to harden and crack after 2 to 4 years.
• Latex and butyl-based caulk – A little more expensive, but much more durable than oil-based. It lasts from 6 to 20 years and holds up well to building expansion and contraction caused by changes in temperature.

Before applying caulk or weather stripping, the area should be cleaned thoroughly and any old caulk or weather-stripping should be removed.

Directions for application will be on the tube and should be followed carefully. In general, about a half inch of the caulking cartridge nozzle should be cut off at a 45 degree angle and the tip should be punctured.

Once the caulk is applied, you can finish the surface with a moistened finger or something smooth.

Apply caulking to all fixed joints, including:

• Around windows and doors where frames meet siding
• Between window sills and siding
• Between frame wall plates and the foundation
• Around all holes for pipes, ducts, or electric conduits through outside walls
• Around all holes through walls, separating heated and unheated spaces, such as attached garages, storerooms, or attics
• Between unheated porches and the main body of the house
• Where the chimney or masonry meets the siding
• Around outside water hose faucets

Weatherstripping is similar to caulking, but is used for areas like the bottom of a window or door where the seal will be formed.

Installing weatherstripping is a simple process. All you will need is the contents of the kit you buy at a home improvement store. Keep in mind that this is being applied to a movable surface so you don't want to purchase a flimsy product that can wear easily.

If the kit you purchase does not include the screws, you should have several types and sizes of screws available as well as a utility knife or something to cut the weather stripping with, and screwdrivers, and possibly a hammer.

Installing Weatherstripping:

1. First measure the length of all seams to be weather-stripped, add a couple of inches for each seam and add the numbers together.
2. Next, cut the weather stripping to fit each seam, plus extra. Apply the stripping all the way around a window by using nails, screws or adhesive.
3. Attach the stripping to the jamb or the stop- the placement varies with the type of weather-stripping you selected.
4. Then, apply the stripping to the sides and the tops of doors. Use a weather-tight threshold or door sweep to seal the bottom.

Home Improvement Project Planning and Scope

First, you want to plan your home improvement project and consider the scope before looking for contractor(s). If all you’re doing is re-grouting your shower then you don’t need much of a plan.

On the other hand, when doing a major remodeling project such as gutting your bathroom and redoing the entire room then it really pays to spend some time planning the project. Consider whether you will act as your own general contractor and manage the project details yourself or whether the time and skills required are beyond your abilities, in which case a good general contractor can not only save you time and money, but can also ensure you avoid a complete remodeling disaster.

Too many homeowners and do-it-yourselfers start out on a large home renovation project only to find themselves in deep over their heads. Don’t make this mistake or you may pay a hefty price later to have a general contractor come in and bail you out; the absolute wrong time to hire a contractor is when you’ve already invested a bunch of money in materials and gone without a kitchen or bathroom for weeks or months and need the job completed quickly!

What to Look For in a Contractor

When you have a basic project scope and plan ready, its time to consider what you need in a contractor, as there are always tradeoffs in terms of time, quality and price to consider. Ask yourself what qualities are most important to you in a contractor(s):

Overall Project Scope – while some contractors specialize in remodeling, others focus on building custom homes from start to finish. Knowing whether the project you have in mind is well-suited to the contractor(s) you select is critical to a successful project outcome.

Project Cost and Pricing – if project cost is important then look for contractors who are willing to negotiate pricing in exchange for a longer project timeline so that they might be able to work on your project while things are a bit slower on other projects. It will take longer to complete the project but if you’re willing to wait you can save money in some cases.

Quality of Work – if the most important aspect in your home improvement project is the quality of workmanship and materials then you’ll want to find a contractor(s) who have the highest reputation for quality; this often means not only paying a higher price but oftentimes also being put on a waiting list until the job even gets going. The best contracting companies are usually those who are known for their responsiveness and attention to detail, making them more in demand and able to charge premium prices.

Rapid Project Completion – another trade off to consider is how quickly you want/need your project to be completed. By building incentives into the project plan and contract for reaching milestones on time or ahead of schedule, you’ll most likely pay a premium. But, on the other hand, if the thought of living without a kitchen for months or having your home torn apart and having to either live in the midst of a construction site or moving to a temporary location for the duration of the project doesn’t sound too enticing, then paying a bit more to get the project done quickly may be worthwhile.

Unique Features and Customizations – if your project involves highly unique or custom features you may need to look high and low for the right contractor(s) to achieve your goals. For instance, while a qualified electrician may be able to wire a basic media room, if your project involves installing a high end custom home theater, you’ll be much better off finding a contractor who specializes in home audio and video systems. Specialization is the name of the game these days when it comes to high end home building and remodeling projects.

Once you have prioritized the qualities and trade offs that are most critical to you in hiring a contractor(s) its time to start looking. In part 2 of this series we’ll show you the best means of finding and selecting your contractor(s).

Like a cartoon character you go to open your closet one day and things spill out on top of you. If you’re like me, you have lots of clothes. And belts. And shoes. And coats. And sweaters and tops and … well, you get the idea!

However, when I bought my house I came to the sad realization that my ‘walk in closet’ meant I could step in it, not walk all the way in! This led me on my search for a good closet organizer! Learn from my mistakes!

Fabric Organizers

Fabric closet organizers can be purchased to fir long coats and dresses, shirts, shoes, sweaters, so on and so forth.

The problem with this type of organizer is that on the organizers designed for sweaters and shoes, the ‘cubes’ have a cardboard type bottom that the clothes sit on top of. At some point you just decide to move on!

Closet Organizers

For lightweight items, this may not pose a problem, but for my collections of Irish and Scottish wool sweaters, which weigh as much as a small cat, the cardboard would bend. Not so good. The zippered hanging compartments for hanging clothes worked well, but I found it impractical to unzip and zip every morning- just to get dressed. And imagine putting laundry away…no, it was not fun.

These factors taught me that this was not the type of closet organizer I needed. So, back to the home improvement store I went.

There is literally a whole aisle dedicated to closet organization! Wire racks of every length, and pre-packaged kits promised the worlds most organized closet- all in only minutes. As dazed as I was by all the white-coated wire racks surrounding me, I opted for a pre packaged closet organizer that promised it only took a few minutes to install. This was Sunday.

Deciding How to Organize Your Closet

Come Tuesday, I broke down and called my brother to come and put this infernal thing together. Around midnight, he left and I started to hang up my clothes.

But, even though I was unable to assemble this thing by myself, I must say, I do like it (once I finally got it together)! There is a section for long clothes, a section with two racks, for blouses and slacks to hang beneath, and wire shelving for my heavy sweaters and purses. I kept the fabric organizer for my shoes, since none of my shoes are that heavy!

So when you go to purchase your new closet organizer, think about what you want. Consider the types of clothing you are storing, and how often you want to access them. Also, make sure you measure the length and depth of your closet before hitting the closet organizer aisle!

Closet Space Planning

One thing you have to do is size up your stuff and how to make best use of your closet space. If you are blessed with a walk in closet you may have a little room to spare, but if you’re like most of us, you need every inch you can find.

Thinking strategically and taking time to find the best closet organizing aids for your own closet lets you avoid getting rid of stuff you’d otherwise like to keep or moving stuff around as the seasons change and you find new things on sale!

Where to Start Organizing Your Closet

First thing is to clear away the junk and old clothes you KNOW you’re never going to wear again. Have a yard sale, donate stuff to The Good Will; clear out your closet before you plan, buy and install your closet organizers! It will make your job a whole lot easier and you’ll be much happier with the results.

Next, evaluate the existing shelving, clothing rods, etc. and decide what you will possibly keep and what needs to be replaced. If all you have is the little shelf at the top with the clothes rod underneath, it’s like having a clean slate. But if you already have some shelving, drawers, baskets, etc. that can be ‘recycled’ you should plan how to incorporate them in your new closet storage plan.

Take good measurements and make a drawing or two so that you have a few ideas on what you want to go where. That will make it easier to select the right modular storage pieces, hanging garment organizers, etc.

Closet Organization Products

Time to go shopping! While there are literally thousands of products on the market these days, here are a few popular types of closet organizers to consider:

• Modular, stackable closet organizers are a cheap way to store stuff you can fold such as sweaters, undergarments, etc. The better modular units offer easy gliding drawers or you can choose open shelves for easy access and a cheaper solution. Check sliding mechanisms for durability and a smooth sliding action.
• Hanging storage closet organizers hang on a rod, leaving you open floor space to store other items and are designed to store specific items such as shoes, belts, ties, suits, dresses, etc. These can also be a very cost effective solution. Remember that vertical space is what you want to maximize.
• Wicker baskets make attractive closet organizers to keep less-often used items like off-season clothes, spare towels, etc. Get several baskets that stack neatly and you can make great use of that top shelf in a standard 3×8-foot bedroom closet that always seems so tough to make useful.
• Organizers for belts and neckties range widely, from simple hanging racks to motorized revolving models; decide where you plan to install them and measure before you buy or be sure you can easily exchange the racks if you find they won’t fit your closet.
• If you wear hats and caps, look for a rack that goes on the back of the closet door or look for stackable hat boxes.

In cooler climates carpet is favored for its warmth and is used widely for anywhere that requires bright color and pattern, combined with a luxuriant quality. Carpet once was a luxury only for the better off, but with the invention of synthetic materials, carpets nowadays can be one of the cheapest and most practical flooring materials available.

Although the thought of laying carpet yourself may seem time consuming and difficult, if you really are interested, I have taught myself that it is entirely do-able for the do-it-yourselfer. If possible, find a friend with at least some experience to help you the first time. Choose a room that is relatively simple in shape and not too big for your first attempt!

If you dare to try it yourself, read on. If not, it is still worth understanding what is involved so that you’re prepared when you hire a pro to install new carpeting in your home.

Determining What Type of Carpet to Install

Before you get to the procedure for laying your carpet, it is important to determine what type of carpet you are working with. You have the choice of either woven-backed carpet or rubber-backed carpet. They each not only produce different results but also require a difference in the method to lay them correctly.

Woven-backed carpets are laid over a rubber or felt underpad which helps to even out irregularities in the subfloor and also makes the carpet feel softer and more substantial. Rubber feels softer underfoot but felt is more resilient and thus a good choice for an uneven floor or a carpet that needs stitching together. The drawback of woven-backed carpet is that it needs to be stretched carefully over gripper strips to fit the room. This could be difficult for the amateur who has never laid a carpet before so it should only be attempted if you have laid carpet in your home before.

Rubber-backed carpet is a cheaper than woven-backed carpet. It has a rubber backing bonded to the carpet so does not require a second underpad. The main advantage of rubber-backed carpet is that it does not need to be stretched over gripper strips so even the amateur can use the opportunity to practice their skills.

What You’ll Need to Lay Carpet

Many of the materials you’ll need to lay your carpet you should find you already will have.  The remaining materials you should easily be able to rent from a hardware store.

• Gripper strips
• Sharp utility knife or carpet shears
• Measuring tape
• Knee kicker
• Carpet stretcher
• Seam cutter, iron and tape
• Double-sided tape or liquid adhesive

Preparing the Space for New Carpet

I am writing these steps assuming that you are working in a fresh and clean space. If you aren’t, I’ll quickly state the obvious when it comes to removing an old carpet.

1. Give the old carpet a good vacuum before removing it to lessen the dust that will lift from it. You can then use a sharp utility knife to cut the carpet into manageable strips to make it easier to remove. Throw it all out!
2. Sometimes people are tempted to keep existing underpad but in the majority of cases they are worn beyond redemption so it’s best to get a fresh start to save on unnecessary extra work later. Lastly, strip all the old gripper strips from the perimeter of the room. Give the floor a good sweep out and take the opportunity to fasten any loose, noisy floorboards.
3. With the space cleared you can begin with the important preparation steps:
4. If you are working with a woven-backed carpet you need to begin by nailing gripper strips around the perimeter of the room, using a spacer to set them slightly away from the skirting (baseboard).
5. Go on to install the underpad, trimmed to butt up against the gripper strips. Tape pieces together as necessary, then staple the underpad to the floor at intervals.
6. If you are working with foam-backed carpet, firstly you need to put down a paper or cloth underpad on the floor the keep the foam from sticking to the floor. Tape it at the joins and staple it in place.
7. Put double-sided adhesive tape all around the perimeter of the room.

Basic Steps to Laying Your Own Carpet

1. Laying the Carpet: First step is the carpet needs to be laid out. Unroll the carpet and position it so it laps up the room walls about 4 to 6 inches. You can trim the edges roughly with a sharp utility knife and make cuts at external corners so that tongues of carpet will fit around them. Think ahead about where you want seams to go before you start cutting your carpet. This is where having assistance from a friend who’s done carpet-laying before is a huge advantage!
2. Seaming the Carpet: If the room is large you may need another piece of carpet to fill it. Overlap the extra piece on the seam where the pieces will join. Cut through the pieces with your utility knife so the pieces will match exactly. Lay adhesive seaming tape where the pieces bond and then apply pressure from a wallpaper seam roller to ensure a good bond.
3. Attaching the Carpet: Next the carpet needs to be attached. With a foam-backed carpet you needs to butt the edge of the carpet up against the longest straight wall in the room. Peel the backing paper off the tape and bed the edge into place. With a woven-backed carpet, press one edge of the carpet  onto the gripper strips using the ‘knee-kick’ tool to ensure that the angled teeth grip the carpet backing securely. Take the ‘toothed’ end of the knee-kicker and position it about 3” from the wall.  Push the padded end of the tool forcefully with your knee to drive the carpet over the tacks on the gripper strips. Cut off the excess carpet along the edge by running a sharp utility knife along the angle between the gripper strip and the skirting.
4. Stretching the Carpet: Now the carpet needs to be unrolled across the room. With foam-backed carpet, work the carpet across the floor to the opposite wall to ensure it is lying flat then trim that edge against the skirting and tape it down too. With woven-backed carpet there is an extra but essential step. First use the blade of the bolster to tuck the trimmed edge of the carpet into the angle between the carpet strip and skirting. After the carpet is attached to the gripper strips of two adjacent walls, you need to begin the stretching process. A carpet stretching tool makes this job very easy.  One end of the carpet stretcher is laid against the wall that the carpet is already attached to, and the other is set approximately 6” from the opposite wall. Grip the carpet in the ‘teeth’ of the tool and push the activation lever which will stretch the carpet to the opposite wall. Continue trimming the edges with your utility knife, tucking the cut edges into the perimeter gaps of the walls.
5. Finishing Up: Make release cuts at the internal and external corners. At the door frame and similar obstacles, trim the carpet to follow the contours of the obstacle as closely as possible and press it onto the gripper strips of adhesive strip.

Here are a couple of videos you may want to watch if you are considering trying to install carpet yourself:

Are you an expert carpet installer or do-it-yourselfer with experience? If so, please add your comments and advice for others to read!

Are you tired of looking at your old kitchen cabinets, countertops and appliances? We all want a designer kitchen but with today’s economic woes the thought of spending $50,000 or more to remodel your kitchen may seem unthinkable.

Given today’s lower home resale prices, over-investing in a high end, custom designer kitchen may not make as much sense economically as it once appeared. Making wise choices now about how much to invest in home remodeling projects will ensure the best return on investment when you decide to sell your home later.

But with retailers and contractors offering deep discounts, now may be a great time to consider giving your kitchen an economy renovation! Read on and learn how to update your kitchen on a tight budget.

Why Invest in Kitchen Remodeling?

For homeowners planning to live in an older home for the next three to five years, minor kitchen upgrades now can provide a nicer place to live and, according to experts, typically return between 90% and 105% of the amount invested in terms of a home’s resale value.

Waiting for economic recovery to begin renovation will most likely mean you’ll pay more in the long run, as the price of appliances, materials and labor go back up … and you’ll be living with an outdated kitchen in the mean time.

Start by Setting a Reasonable Budget

Once you commit to updating your kitchen, start by setting a budget. If you only have $5,000 to spend, you’ll probably be looking at a facelift; repainting, possible refinishing cabinets and replacing the faucets. Remember, done wisely, even small changes can have a big impact.

If your budget is in the $15,000 range, you might consider replacing the countertops and replacing appliances such as the range and dishwasher. If you really push the limit and are able to do some or most of the work yourself, you could even replace kitchen cabinets.
In most cases, a complete kitchen remodel will still typically require a budget of $25,000 or more if you plan to take everything down to the studs and start fresh. But, by selecting less expensive materials and appliances, experienced do-it-yourself homeowners can pull off a complete kitchen renovation by shopping around for appliances, cabinets, flooring, etc. on a modest budget.

Consider Re-facing Kitchen Cabinet

When planning a minor kitchen upgrade, one major decision is whether or not you need to replace cabinets. If the existing cabinets are still serviceable, but just need a fresh look, refinishing or painting cabinets may be an option.

Changing cabinet doors, hinges and pulls can give a kitchen a completely new look. Ask a couple of local cabinetmakers for an evaluation to see what’s possible. While you don’t have a lot of options to change your kitchen’s layout with this approach, the decision to replace cabinets is a major factor in determining the scope and cost of the project.

If you do decide that your old cabinets are beyond fixing or you want to change the layout of your kitchen, you need to recognize that your budget needs will be significantly higher and be prepared to set your budget accordingly. In fact, many people end up putting off kitchen renovation simply because they can’t or do not want to keep their existing cabinets, eliminating the option of a low-cost facelift.

Pre-manufactured, modular kitchen cabinet systems can also help save money versus hiring a custom cabinet maker. Once you have decided new cabinets are a requirement, spending the time to do your homework and evaluate all your options will really impact your bottom line budget and how realistic the project will be relative to your budget constraints.

Affordable Kitchen Countertops

Surfaces take a real beating in the demanding kitchen environment, making natural stone the most popular choice when it comes to kitchen countertops. Granite is the toughest stone for kitchen surfaces, with marble being softer and somewhat less stain-resistant.
Limestone, slate, soapstone, and sandstone are softer, but can also cost less. However, unless you are remodeling a very small kitchen, natural stone countertops can really inflate the overall project budget, typically costing between $40 and $100 per square foot, installed.

Engineered stone is another option, typically made by combining crushed quartz with polymer resins to create a durable and attractive and nonporous surface. While it may save money versus high end granite or marble, engineered stone doesn’t really save a whole lot at between $45 and $90 per square foot, installed.

Ceramic tile is a great choice for the economy kitchen remodeling project; available in an almost endless range of colors, patterns, and styles, it can be installed by most experienced do-it-yourselfers. And, at $10 to $30 per square foot, installed, ceramic tile is a real cost-saver, especially in a kitchen with lots of countertop area!

Laminate is also a cost-effective option and is relatively easy to install, but typically scratches, stains and shows wear more than ceramic tile. Laminate (or post-formed) countertops run $10 to $30 per square foot, installed, so cost is typically about the same as for ceramic tile.

Kitchen Appliance Replacement Options

After cabinets and countertops, the most costly investment in most kitchen renovations will be appliances. But there are ways to keep the cost down when selecting and installing major appliances.

For instance, while every gourmet chef would love to have double ovens, a basic single gas oven, especially with an integrated range top, is one way to really keep the lid on your appliance budget. How much are you willing to sacrifice in order to complete your kitchen renovation within your budget constraints? And how often do you cook big meals that require dual ovens, convection, etc? Asking yourself these questions as you plan your kitchen project and then prioritizing needs can really help you make the best trade-offs and choices.

Tests show that there is relatively little difference in reliability between high end brands and models as compared to less expensive ones. You may not get all the bells and whistles or appliances with the designer/commercial kitchen look, but shop around for appliances and you can find some great deals these days! Also, ask about low or no-interest financing or delayed payment plans that could reduce your initial outlay, leaving more funds for other aspects of your kitchen project.

While you don’t want to skimp so much that you end up hating your oven, range, dishwasher or refrigerator, you also don’t want to over-invest in kitchen investments; it won’t add enough resale value to justify buying the most expensive models and unless cooking is really a passion, you probably won’t find yourself wishing you had paid more in the long run!

Saving Money on Kitchen Sinks and Faucets

From a performance standpoint, both functionally and in terms of durability, there is little difference between the various brands and price points available these days. Really, what you pay for when buying a high end sink or faucet will be style and uniqueness of design.

Stainless steel remains the most popular choices in kitchen sinks. But, there is not much difference between lower gauge and the thicker, more costly higher gauge models; most will resist dents, stains, scratches, and heat about the same. A basic stainless faucet will match your stainless sink nicely and costs far less than brushed nickel or other finishes.

Another great value if you don’t want the metallic look is an enameled cast-iron sink. The Kohler Smart Divide kitchen sink has a lower lip between the dual bowls, making it easy to wash large items.

Bowls in kitchen sink models range from 6 to 12 inches deep. A deeper bowl helps reduce splashing, but one that is too deep forces you to bend over more. Also, if you select an under-mounted kitchen sink, remember the drop-in will lower it by another inch-and-a-half.

The choice is clear when selecting a sink and faucet; you can keep your budget down by selecting basic, functional models made with quality materials and avoiding the designer models made with higher cost finishes. Really, if you spend $500 on your faucet, it will make almost no difference in terms of your home’s resale value than a basic stainless steel model!

Affordable Kitchen Flooring Options

When it comes to affordable flooring, the good news is that less expensive materials can often a better choice for the rigors of kitchen wear and tear than more costly materials!

Solid wood flooring is known for natural warmth and may be a great choice in high-end designer kitchens, but it is costly to install, can discolor, is easily dented and wears quickly. And, at $7 to $12 per square foot, installed, it is not the most economical choice.

Engineered wood or bamboo flooring is easier to install than solid wood since it is typically nailed, stapled or glued in place, or else floated, without fasteners. However, it can dent and show stains and spills more than other flooring materials. At $5 to $10 per square foot, installed, it is an economical choice; if you install it yourself you can save even more.

Ceramic tile is typically resistant to wear, moisture, scratches, dents, and stains. However, since it is very flooring hard surface, you should be prepared for dishes to break if dropped! Labor intensive to lay and grout; prices range from $8 to $15 per square foot, making ceramic tile a less economic choice for kitchen flooring.

Plastic laminate flooring may be one of the most affordable options; it can be floated without using glue or fasteners and wears better than most wood flooring products, resisting dents, scratches and UV fading. While it can’t be refinished and may be damaged by some types of liquid spills, at $4 to $8 per square foot, installed, plastic laminate flooring looks great and helps keep the budget in line.

Vinyl flooring is stain and UV fade-resistant, easy to install and long wearing. Today’s vinyl flooring products can reasonably imitate the look of stone or other natural materials, although a vinyl floor is not likely to help your new kitchen win designer awards. But, at Price $3 to $7 per square foot, installed, it is an affordable kitchen flooring option worth considering.

While linoleum is available in many styles and colors today, it is not as long wearing as the plastic laminate products and will run you $4 to $9 per square foot, installed.

Summary: Making Smart Kitchen renovation Choices

While many people are choosing not to make home renovations in the current economic situation and given the current decline in home resale prices, remember that everything is cyclical. For homeowners willing to accept some risk in the short term, having a new kitchen they enjoy and adding long term value to their home still makes a lot of sense.

Everything is a buyer’s market right now, so smart homeowners will strike while the iron is hot, getting a great deal on the new kitchen of their dreams by making wise decisions, setting and sticking to a reasonable budget and knowing they are making a long term investment in their home!

Unglazed and softer than other types of tile, terracotta is made from extruded or hand-formed clay. It comes available in a number of shapes and sizes, from small hexagons to large squares.

The colors range from dusky ochres to oranges through to reds. Part of the charm of terracotta is precisely this color variation, within each tile and from tile to tile, as well as the textural variations of the surface.

Adhesive for Terracotta Tiles

Larger and heavier than ceramic tiles, terracotta tiles need a thicker adhesive bed, especially if the tiles are handmade and vary in thickness, or if they have bowed during manufacture. The method described here can be used for other types of tile such as quarry or slate, the thick adhesive bed being used to absorb any difference in tile thickness.

Although a sand-and-cement mix can be used for many heavy tiles, it is not really suitable for terracotta tiles. Because they are very porous, they may react with the cement to cause efflorescence – when the soluble salts come to the surface as a white stain.

Use a thick-bed adhesive, which can be applied at any thickness from 5mm to 2.3cm (¼ to 1in). Thick-bed adhesive can be happily used on an uneven floor base and dries very quickly, in some cases enabling tiling and grouting to be carried out on the same day.

Laying Terracotta Tiles

1. Start in the furthest corner, having located the center point and adjusted it, and having marked up a grid which will help to keep you straight.
2. Mix up the tile adhesive according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Some types of thick-bed adhesive are simply poured onto the floor and spread out to an even level with an appropriate type of spreader, and then the tiles are laid straight onto it. Other types of adhesive require the back of the tile to be buttered with adhesive as well. Handmade tiles may vary slightly in size and thickness, so apply more adhesive to the backs of thinner tiles and allow a wide gap, approximately 12mm (½in), between the tiles. Any variations in size will be taken up within the joints.
3. Use a spirit level, check regularly that the tiles you have laid are level, and certainly after each grid block.
4. Once the central area of the floor is finished, fill the border.

Cutting Terracotta Tiles

1. The easiest way to cut terracotta tiles is with an angle grinder fitted with a stone-cutting wheel.
2. Cut a groove into the tile to two thirds of the tile’s depth and then snap it in two.
3. The cutter will, if required, cut or grind through the whole thickness of the tile – useful for cutting awkward shapes out of a tile to go round pipes and other obstructions.

Sealing Terracotta Tiles

1. Terracotta and quarry tiles are very porous and must be sealed before you add grouting in order to provide a hard-wearing and easy-to-clean surface.
2. Ensure the surfaces of the tiles are free from dust and any traces of tile adhesive.
3. Brush one coat of boiled linseed oil over the tiles with a brush or short-haired paint roller. It is important to apply an even coat to avoid the risk of streaking. The oil will soak into the tile, the surface losing its gloss 2-10 minutes after application. If it appears more matt in less time than that, apply the oil more liberally.
4. Allow the sealer to dry and then grout. A second coat of sealer should be applied after grouting.

Grouting Terracotta Tiles

1. Grout terracotta tiles with a grout that is suitable for wide joints; porous tiles are grouted using a pointing method rather than by simply spreading the grout over the surface as you would for ceramic tiles.
2. Fill the joints using a pointing trowel, and avoid spilling any of the grout onto the surface of the tiles.
3. Finish the grout by making it slightly concave; bend a round metal pipe into a convenient shape and use that.
4. Some times of handmade tiles benefit from ‘slurry grouting’ – a technique which fills in all the pits and dents to create an antiqued appearance.
5. Mix up the grout to a creamy consistency and grout as you would with ceramic tiles, ensuring that the grout fills all the crevices.
6. Clean the excess grout off the surface with a damp sponge.

Finishing and Care of Your Terracotta Tile Floor

1. Apply a second coat of seal once the grout has thoroughly dried, using oil more sparingly than before as the tiles will be less porous. Any excess oil that does not soak in after 20 minutes should be cleaned from the surface of the tile.
2. After the oil has had time to soak into the tiles fully, which usually takes a few hours or overnight, the tiles can be waxed.
3. Use a propriety floor wax and wax the floor twice. The new floor should then be waxed once a week for the following month in order to build up a smooth and hard-wearing surface, yet mellow surface.

Ceramic floor tiles are made from a dust-pressed clay that is fired at high temperatures. Fully vitrified ceramic tiles are the most waterproof of all tiles, making them perfect for the wettest areas such as bathrooms. Ceramic floor tiles are not glazed; glazed tiles are normally too slippery unless the glaze has a roughened surface.

They may have decorative patterns or little studs on the surface for textural variation and slip resistance. Oxides, added during the manufacturing process, give these tiles the widest range of colors of any unglazed tile. including plain white.

Ceramic tiles are thinner than quarry or terracotta tile and their uniform thickness enables trouble-free installation. They can, if you prefer, be polished to give a more glamorous look.

What You’ll Need

• For any ceramic tiling job, large or small, the materials you require are the same:
• A notched adhesive spreader
• Tile spacers
• Grout plus a flexible spreader
• Tape measure
• Tile cutter, saw, and file
• Pencil or felt tip pen
• Sponges or cloths for wiping

Laying Ceramic Floor Tiles

1. Before you begin, it is essential you set out the tiles in the room to check you won’t have any problems. Then you can begin laying:
2. Mix up the tile adhesive according to the manufacturer’s instructions. You can add any special additives for greater flexibility if you are covering a wood floor. Tile adhesive has a limited pot life, about 20 minutes, so do not mix up more than you will realistically be able to use in your time available.
3. Lay your first tile in the corner furthest from the door. In order accurately to position this tile, dry-lay a line of tiles from the centre line, and then draw a line at right angles to the centre line along the far edge of the whole tile at right angles to your guideline. Providing this line is parallel to the centre line the last tile you dry-laid is your ‘first tile’.
4. Only spread the adhesive over an area of approximately 1sq m (1sq yd) at a time. Using the recommended side of a notched spreader or trowel, apply the adhesive to the correct depth, normally approximately 3mm (⅛in). Depending on the adhesive being used, it may be necessary to butter the back of the tile with adhesive as well.
5. Press the tile into position with a slight twisting motion. It is important to bed the tile into the adhesive without any air gaps. For neat and even joints, usually 6-12mm (¼-½in.), use plastic spaces between the tiles.
6. Continue laying the tiles in the first marked square, checking the tiles are level with a spirit level and straight edge. You need to work fast, as you have a very limited amount of time to reposition any tiles that are incorrectly laid. If any adhesive gets on the surface of a tile clean it off immediately with a damp cloth; ensure too that the joints are adhesive-free.
7. When the first grid box has been laid, apply adhesive to the second and continue laying tiles along the far wall. Then complete the second row of squares and continue laying the tiles in rows of boxes, working towards the door. Allow the tile adhesive to dry thoroughly before walking on the tiles. Conventional adhesives usually need at least 24 hours although fast-setting adhesives can take only a few hours.

It will probably be necessary to cut tiles around the edges of the room to fit; if you lay the tiles on the diagonal, you will need to cut at least one in every two tiles. Ceramic tiles can be cut using a tile-cutting jig.

To determine where to cut a border tile:

1. Place a whole tile over the last laid whole tile.
2. To allow for a grout, place a tile on its side between this tile and the wall and place another tile up against it.
3. Mark the middle tile with a soft pencil where the tile above it ends.
4. Place the tile in the jig and cut along the marked line.
5. Butter the back of the cut tile and press into position. Continue until all the border tiles have been laid, leaving the four corners until last in order to cut them accurately.

Grouting Ceramic Tile

When all the tiles have been laid and the adhesive is dry, fill the tile joints with a tile grout suitable for floors. Conventional grout is a powder mixed with water according to the manufacturer’s instructions. It is available in colors ranging from off-white to dark grey. For tiles laid over wood floors, remember to mix in a flexible additive.

For food-preparation areas an epoxy grout is a good idea because it is extremely hard and easily cleaned. Epoxy grout consists of two components that are mixed together, and then a powder filler is added to bulk it out.

1. Pour the grout onto the surface and spread it into the joints with the aid of a rubber squeegee, working on small areas at a time.
2. After 15 minutes, clean any excess grout off the surface with a damp cloth.
3. Once the grout has hardened sufficiently, polish the tiles with a clean, dry cloth.

Of all the hard-surface flooring materials available, tile, whether ceramic or natural stone, is one of the most popular in the modern home.

Tile is most commonly used in kitchens and bathrooms, where ease of cleaning is at a premium, but you could also use tile in the entry and, especially in warmer climates, tile may be used throughout the home.

Due to a range of manufacturing processes floor tiles offer a wide range of practical hard-wearing products suitable for domestic situations.

The ranges of colors and textures available, ease of cleaning as well as the ease of which the do-it-yourselfer can install them with, tiles are a very practical option when considering a hard-flooring material for your home décor design.

While many people would not consider trying to install their own tile flooring, the steps are actually quite easy to learn and aside from a tile cutter or wet saw to cut tiles, even the tools needed are fairly minimal. As with any home project it is essential to spend a little time and care on setting things out before you start to tile your floor if you are to prevent problems.

Measuring the Floor Space to be Tiled

Ordering the right amount of material is vital to ensure that there is sufficient to finish the job neatly as well as to compensate for inevitable wastage from mistakes and breakages. Take your time; double-check measurements and sums; and you will probably save both time and money.

It is always worth taking an accurate plan of your room to your supplier, who will know the best way to save material – particularly in awkwardly shaped rooms. However, rooms with square or rectangular walls without any interruptions along them are easy to measure. To calculate the area, simply measure the width and depth of the room and multiply one figure by the other; this is the number of square feet or meters to be covered.

Most areas have various obstacles: built-in cupboards, chimney breasts and alcoves. In order to include these in your estimate:

1. First measure the width and depth of the unobstructed rectangle forming the room’s central part, and calculate that area.
2. Then measure the width and depth of every recess and add these together to calculate the total area occupied by these recesses.
3. Finally add this first figure to calculate the actual area of floor space to be covered in square feet or meters.

Estimating Tile Flooring Materials

Estimate how many of your tiles are required per square foot or meter and multiply that number by the number of square feet or meters in the room. Remember that you will have to cut tiles to fit at the edges. Estimate the number of extra tiles you will need by allowing enough to tile one additional strip along half the walls and then add a few more in case of breakages.

With larger, more expensive tiles it may be worth calculating if off-cuts can be used to prevent waste. Your final figure will have to be rounded up; tiles are supplied in boxes so you will probably have tiles left over.

Ask your supplier if unused materials can be returned for a refund; typically you will want to over-estimate so that you don’t have to order additional materials or make multiple trips to the home improvement center or supplier. On the other hand, you don’t want to end up with too much material left over other than a few tiles you might want to keep on hand in case repairs are needed down the road.

Planning Your Floor Tile Layout

It is essential to spend time on carefully laying things out before you start to tile the floor if you are to prevent problems. Tiles must not be allowed to go out of square, otherwise they will simply not fit together, and you must avoid ending up with an annoying little thin strip of tiles against the last wall.

The process for setting out your tiles is slightly different depending on the shape and style of the room. We will set it out in three sections: A regular room, an irregular room and how to set tiles with a border.

Laying out Tile for in a Regular-Shaped Room

1. Measure along the two opposite shortest walls to find the midpoint of each and join these two marks together with a chalk line. Measure and mark 1 yard (36”) or 1 meter (39”) along this center line on each side of the middle point. Measure 1 yard (36”) or 1 meter (39”) from the center point at an estimated 90-degree angle. Measure the two diagonal lines between the marks on either side of the middle point and the 90-degree marks top and bottom, and adjust the latter’s position until these two diagonals both measure 1.415m (55¾ in).
2. You now have an angle of 90 degrees at the top and bottom. A straight line from these points to the middle of the center line will meet the center line at 90 degrees. The diagonals can serve as guidelines for laying tiles diagonally at 45 degrees to the walls.
3. Use the chalk line to join the midpoint of the center line with the 90-degree mark and extend this line across the full width of the room to mark the shorter center line.
4. From these two lines, dry-lay a line of tiles up to each edge of the room to check that you will not be left with a thin strip of tiles at any point. If this happens, adjust the center lines by half a tile’s width to leave a decent border of tiles.
5. To ensure that all the tiles are laid without going out of square, it is best to divide up the entire floor into a series of boxes of approx 1 sq m (1 sq yd), starting from the two center lines. The exact size of the ‘boxes’ will obviously be determined by the size of your chosen tiles.
6. When laying ceramic or quarry tiles remember to allow for the grout: about 6mm (¼in) for the smaller tiles and up to 10mm (⅜in) for larger tiles.

Laying out Tile for in an Irregular-Shaped Room

The principle for setting out an irregular room is the same as for a regular room except that you work from the longest and straightest wall. Adjust the position of the center line so that a series of whole tiles can run from it to the longest wall. If the room is very out of square the final line of tiles (opposite the long, straight wall) will be cut at an angle and will vary considerably in their final size, but visually this is acceptable.

If the room is only slightly out of square you may find that you end up with a thin sliver of tiles that gradually diminish as the room narrows. If this is the case, you should adjust the center line by half a tile, so that you are basically working with half-tiles at the edge.

In rooms that are very irregular and have no obvious long wall, where to start to tile is really a matter of personal judgement. It is important to identify a feature in the room (a door, for instance) and align the tiles so that they run parallel to it.

If the room has a dominant feature, such as a range of kitchen units that are set out in a U-shape, run the center line through the ‘U’ to bisect it. Provided the center lines are at 90-degrees to each other, the tiles will always be square.

Laying Out Flooring Tiles with a Border

It is necessary to measure from the walls to establish the grid, but adjust the final position of the grid so that there is space for a border all the way around the room.

Either adjust the grid so that there are whole tiles laying against the border on two of the walls, or center the grid right in the middle of the room and cut all the tiles against the border all the way around the room, provided the cut tiles do not end up being too narrow.

Tile the center area first and finish by tiling the border. Tiles that are laid diagonally should be finished with a border that runs parallel to the walls.

No matter what, always dry-lay your tiles out first to check that your layout is going to work and that your cuts are on the mark where needed to fit odd shapes and spaces as needed.

It has been a little over a year now since we developed the current RafterTales home improvement and decorating blog, we have posted almost 400 articles during that time. Looking back at the content we have published, it is fun to look back and see which articles have been most popular with our readers; it seems most of the hot topics relate to home decorating and interior design.

Probably this is not all that surprising since we all want to make our homes more appealing, comfortable and a reflection of our own tastes and lifestyles. And not all of us have the skills, time or inclination to take on projects like major renovation or remodeling projects. But owning a home can be stressful and entails hidden costs and unforeseen problems that you will want to consider if you are considering purchasing a home or moving up to a larger, more expensive dwelling! While decorating is more fun than maintenance, I want to share with you a few of my own 2008 experiences with home maintenance and repairs.

Is Your Home an Investment or Primarily a Roof Over Your Head?

The last year of turmoil in the housing and financial markets has certainly caused many people to re-examine the benefits and reasons to own a home. For one thing, the rapid downturn in average home prices and crippled home lending institutions has made home ownership a trap for many people. It is a harsh reminder that residential real estate is not always a liquid investment vehicle. We bought our first home in 1994, at the end of the last significant U.S. real estate downturn.

By 2000 our humble 1970s California ranch home had more than doubled in value and we were able to sell it in less than 30 days, reinvesting our windfall equity gain in a brand new home. What fun it was to design and specify flooring, kitchen appliances, paint and interior design details and watch our new home being framed and built from the ground up!
In 2005 we made the decision to leave California and move north to Oregon. We were able to sell our larger, upgraded California home in 2005 for almost twice what we had paid only 5 years previously and it took only 4 days to sell! What a difference 5 years makes; homes in California are now selling for an average of 30% less than only a year ago … assuming you can even sell a home at all in the midst of the current credit crisis.

While it seems counter-intuitive to what many of our generation has viewed as the single greatest investment we might make in our lifetimes (to own a home and live the American Dream), if you look at the facts of history, home appreciation averages about 3% annually over the long haul, while stocks typically return closer to 10% per year over a very long time frame. The last 10 to 15 years of 10% and higher appreciation in home prices may turn out to look like a complete anomaly in a historical perspective.

Plan for Unexpected Home Repair Costs

When we moved to Oregon in 2005 we bought a home that was less than two years old. Unlike moving into a brand new home, where things like landscaping, window coverings and the like are needed; our thought process was that we could just move in since the previous owners had already taken care of those things. And that plan worked perfectly; we just moved into the like-new home without having to invest much in decorating, landscaping and the like.

But, like so many aspects of 2008, our now-five-year-old home had a few unpleasant, and costly, experiences in store! Having decided to move to Oregon, undoubtedly, we live in a “wet state”. That means that the roof, exterior siding, doors and windows take a real beating.

In March, heavy rain and wind storms caused leaks in two of our home’s French doors, both of which have a southwesterly exposure and are placed nearly on top of one another; one in our master bedroom on the top floor and the other in our Great Room just below. Unfortunately, the doors the builder installed were not up to the constant rain and moisture during an extended storm began to cause leaks in the ceiling on both the main floor and in our daylight basement below.

The good news is that homeowner’s insurance covered the cost of repairing the damage. The bad news is that the builder went bankrupt and we had to cover the cost of replacing the French doors with sliders that could withstand the wind and rain. That was almost a $10,000 set back for which we really had not planned. Our homeowner’s insurance covered the cost of sheetrock repair and repainting, which came to another $7,500.

Do Home Repair Problems Come Three at at Time?

It took from March until September for all these repairs to be completed and we thought our home was ready for this winter; we did HVAC maintenance, cleaned roof gutters, had the roof inspected and other preparations for winter were all complete.

Then, two weeks before Christmas, Portland was hit by the worst snow storms in 40 years, with temperatures getting down into the teens. While opening the garage door one cold morning, one of the torsion springs snapped, leaving both our cars trapped inside the garage with the 600-pound two-car carriage garage door unable to open. You’d think that a garage door spring would last more than 5 years, but it turns out that on average these springs (which cost about $20 each) are good for about 10,000 cycles.

Now I’m handy enough with tools and have completed many projects over the years with help from friends, from landscaping to replacing doors, texturing and painting walls, etc. But I have no idea how to disassemble and install new torsion springs on a garage door so we had to call a company in to perform the repairs. Turns out the bearings and rollers also needed repair, so the total bill came to almost $700. Merry Christmas!

Well the snow finally melted as the storms driving down from the northeast have given way to the predominately southwesterly storm patterns. Since Christmas it has rained almost every day, which is typical for the Portland, Oregon metro area this time of year. So anyway, last night (New Year’s Day) my wife and I were in bed. The wind and rain were heavy and we woke up to discover a leak in the ceiling in our master bedroom. Happy New Year! I’ll update the site as things unfold with this latest mishap. If bad things really do happen three at a time, then hopefully we will not have major home repairs for 2009 … but I’m not holding my breath.

Looking Ahead to 2009 on RafterTales

Anyway, I don’t mean to dwell on the pitfalls of home ownership and unforeseen repair issues too much, but merely to share my own experience with others who may not yet have faced the unexpected costs and periodic problems that come with home ownership. Be prepared and plan for these types of things. Be sure to perform regular maintenance on your home’s roof, doors and windows, HVAC system, etc.

In 2009, we will focus more on preventative maintenance to help avoid problems in the first place. We will also focus on what to do when the roof leaks, the garage door breaks or the water heater stops working. We’ll also continue to write about home decorating and home improvement of course, but in the New Year, as we all look to cut costs and weather out the current economic storm, we’ll try and give you more information and tips on home maintenance as well. Happy New Year to you and we wish you all the best in your home ownership journey.

What to do if a Water Supply Pipe Bursts

The worst case plumbing emergency is when a pipe inside your house bursts and you have a flood on your hands; especially if the pipe is in an upstairs location. This is one reason it’s important to know where your water shut of valve is located; when you have water flowing down your hallway is not the time you want to be looking all over the house for the shut off valve.

Shut off the water supply as quickly as you can; what else can I say? You’re definitely going to be calling a plumber next and then your insurance agent after that. Hopefully you’ll never have to face this worst case plumbing scenario.

What to do when the Toilet Backs Up

There is no more annoying plumbing emergency than a stopped up toilet; most clogged toilets are caused by too much toilet paper or trying to flush something other than toilet paper such as paper towels, sponges or toys. Avoid these and you will be far less likely to need to follow these tips for unclogging a toilet:

1. First try clearing the toilet with a plunger; often if you’re lucky that does the trick!
2. If you can’t unclog it with the plunger a closet auger with a corkscrew point may do the trick; since this tool is flexible and can be turned inside the trap, you may be able to get at whatever is blocking the flow of water and dislodge it.
3. Be sure you remove as much of the bad stuff from the bowl before using a closet auger. Yah, major yuck!
4. Don’t push the blockage down into the trap; you have to get it out or you could end up making matters even worse.
5. If the closet auger fails and your toilet has a cleanout plug, your next step is to get a bucket, remove the plug and auger the pipe, letting all the bad stuff drain into the bucket.
6. If that fails or your toilet doesn’t have a cleanout plug, unfortunately it’s probably time to call Joe the Plumber.

How to Keep Drains Draining

Another common homeowner’s plumbing challenge is the clogged drain. Typically this is an unavoidable hazard we all encounter, but you can help keep it to a minimum with a little regular preventive maintenance.

Almost all bathtub and shower drains have strainers to keep soap and hair from getting into the drain. Simply keep these strainers clean to help avoid clogging and avoid letting large chunks of soap, hair or other debris from getting into the drain in the first place.

Lavatory sinks should likewise have filtering screens to keep the traps from clogging; regularly cleaning the filters will help prevent clogged traps.

Don’t treat your kitchen sink like its garbage can; yes you can throw large pieces of organic material in there and grind them up but don’t! Remember that even though the garbage disposal will grind it all up, it still has to go through your sink trap, so if you avoid putting anything more than necessary into the garbage disposal you won’t have as much chance of a clogged trap AND your garbage disposal will last longer too.

When you use your garbage disposal, be sure to use plenty of water to flush all that ground-up material through the disposal and not let it sit in the trap, where it will harden and stick to the sides … the beginning of a clogged sink trap for sure! And don’t pour grease into your kitchen sink; you’re just begging to have Joe the Plumber make a house call if you do.

What to do when a Bathtub, Shower or Sink Won’t Drain

Unclogging drains and traps are another fun plumbing nightmare. If your first inclination is to reach for the chemicals, think again. Not only are those chemical drain cleaners harmful to the environment, they can also damage your plumbing drain pipes. Try following these tips instead to clear a blocked drain:

1. Pour a quart of boiling water mixed together with one cup of ammonia into the drain and let it sit for thirty minutes
2. Use wet rags to plug all openings so you have created a complete vacuum in the drain and trap; block the overflow holes and any other openings in the sink, including the drain in the second basin if the sink is a double-basin model.
3. Time to try the old plunger; fill the basin with about 2 to 3 inches of water. You can put a little petroleum jelly around the rim of the plunger to help get a tight seal.
4. Put the plunger over the drain and push down and up, using a forceful motion to clear the drain; you want to keep that seal while you are stroking the handle of the plunger up and down.
5. If the plunger doesn’t clear the drain, you’ll have to try dropping and cleaning the trap.
6. If the trap is clear and the drain is still clogged, time to try clearing the blockage in the drain with an auger, running it down the drain hole and maneuvering it around the bends to clear whatever is causing the blockage.
7. If the auger doesn’t work, its time to call Joe unfortunately; you may have a blockage beyond the trap and that means you need a professional plumber.

How to Unclog Sink Strainers and Stoppers

If a drain strainer in your kitchen or bathroom sink is clogged, you can usually solve the problem yourself. Follow these steps to unclog strainers:

1. If the strainer is secured with screws, remove those and set them aside.
2. Carefully pry the strainer up with the tip of a screwdriver without bending or misshaping it in the process.
3. Clean the strainer, removing any debris, hair, etc. and replace it and secure it.

If your sink drain has a stopper, you can clean it by following these steps:

1. Some sink stoppers can be removed simply by turning the stopper by hand until it comes loose.
2. Other models have a pivot rod that must be unscrewed using pliers; pad the pliers with a cloth so you don’t scratch the finish.
3. Once you have removed the stopper, give it a good cleaning and replace it. Cleaning stoppers periodically will help keep your drains flowing strong.

How to Prevent Frozen Pipes

As winter approaches and colder temperatures set in most plumbers see a nice increase in business; good for Joe the Plumber but not so good for Joe the Homeowner. Frozen pipes are one of the most common and costly plumbing problems many homeowners face, but here are some basic preventive steps you can take:

1. Don’t leave a garden hoses connected to an outside hose bib if you expect temperatures to drop below zero; residual water in outdoor hoses can expand and potentially break faucets.
2. Insulate outdoor faucet bibs to prevent them from freezing; look at Home Depot or Lowes for simple kits that make this a cheap, quick do-it-yourself job. Also check your outdoor faucets for leaks or drips which could lead to cracks during a freeze.
3. If you expect a cold spell with below-freezing temperatures it’s a good idea to turn off the water to your outdoor faucets and sprinkler system if your home has shut off valves inside the garage, crawl space or basement. It may be worth having these installed if you live in a colder climate and your home doesn’t already have them!
4. Consider insulating pipes in areas of your home that are not heated such as crawl spaces and the garage with heat cables controlled by a thermostat (most effective, but more costly) or heat tape (cheap but less effective).

Personally, I have the upmost respect for Joe and his plumbing brethren; plumbing repairs are never fun and, as with most crafts, they make the job seem like magic. But really a plumber can unclog any drain or pipe, install or repair pipes and plumbing fixtures with ease because he has years of experience and know how.

Major plumbing repairs and renovations are best left to the pros, but hopefully these tips will help you prevent and handle the simpler plumbing challenges that are bound to occur in any home!

But you might want to reconsider that notion. Even in this tight credit market, a home in a good neighborhood with curb appeal and that feels warm and comfortable inside will sell long before the one next door that looks warn down and neglected!

Also, it’s important to remember that real estate is a cyclical market and prices will come back, so by doing a few inexpensive improvements you’ll be able to enjoy living in your house now while you wait for the market to rebound. And if you decide to sell when things improve you’ll be a step ahead of the game by recession proofing your home. Here are a few tips to help you “recession-proof” your home:

Enhance Your Home’s Curb Appeal

Ask any Realtor and they will tell you that potential buyers pass judgment within the first minute of seeing a house. Since the first thing they will see is the exterior, it makes sense to start with your home’s curb appeal; landscaping, siding and exterior paint can make all the difference in terms of first impressions.

Landscaping is something most people can do themselves. Look on Angie’s List or Craig’s List and you can find a landscape designer to help you draw up plans that you can follow yourself.

And with so many contractors looking for work, you can negotiate much better prices than you could have 2 years ago, making this a great time to upgrade your landscaping, whether you don’t have the time and interest to do the work yourself or you just need a competent professional to put in some new hardscaping, irrigation and sprinkler system or other tasks you don’t have the skills and experience to so yourself.

Update Your Home’s Interior

Once a potential buyer has judged your home from the curb, the next thing of course is what they’ll think when they step inside. If your home feels cluttered and out-of-date or they just don’t agree with your decorating tastes, they probably won’t spend more than a few minutes looking around before moving on to the next house on their Realtor’s list.

So, once again first impressions really matter. The first things a potential buyer sees when entering your home will be the flooring, wall paint and trim work, so these are generally the best place to start. These are also great projects to do on a budget compared to making major home improvements.

Consider using neutral colors when painting walls; while you may love bright primary colors, remember that everyone’s tastes are different and it is proven that homes with neutral wall colors tend to sell better. The same goes for flooring; while you may love bright colored tile flooring or carpeting a more neutral color will appeal to a broader group of potential buyers.

If your home has standard track home baseboards and window casings you might want to consider hiring a contractor to update your trim work; crown molding, custom baseboards and window casings will give your home’s interior a much more appealing look that you’ll enjoy while you live in it and can really increase salability.

You’ll find a lot more inexpensive decorating ideas in our Budget Home Decorating Guide.

Preventive Maintenance

In hard economic times people tend to put off general repairs and maintenance. This is absolutely the worst path to take. If you can’t afford any of the other projects detailed in this article, at least be sure you take care of preventative maintenance.

Letting your leaky roof go will cost you a LOT more in the long run than having it repaired now! Cleaning roof gutters, annual inspection of the heating and air conditioning system and other normal maintenance tasks simply should not be ignored.

If you can’t do the work yourself and budget is tight you’ll just have to get creative and somehow find the funds to keep up with general maintenance on your home. Find other areas in the family budget to cut back in order to make basic home maintenance a priority.

Do One or Two Major Upgrades

Now, if you are fortunate to be well-employed and have enough “cushion” in your savings account to feel relatively comfortable your finances are sufficient to see you through the current economic slump, you might want to consider going ahead with the renovations you had planned when you originally bought your home.

Given that you may be able to negotiate a lower price with contractors right now, investing in modernizing your home is still a good long term investment and could pay a higher return than some other investments you could make.

For ideas on what projects to consider, read our complete story Top Ten Improvements to Increase Home Value. To learn more about how to save money on home improvements you might also want to read How to Save Money on Home Improvement Costs.

If you’re like many people you probably don’t give much thought to your home’s furnace … until winter comes and the snow flies.

But if you wait until that first real cold spell you could find that local heating and cooling contractors are too busy to visit your home, so why not plan ahead a little and take care of your furnace now?

Call in an HVAC Pro Annually

Most HVAC companies will visit your home and perform a 20 point inspection for between $100 and $200. Especially if you have not had such an inspection done in the last 12 months, call for an appointment now! It’s a small investment compared to the cost of running your heater all winter in less-than-optimal condition or having to make major repairs to your heating system down the road.

Be sure you hire a contractor who is licensed to perform heating and cooling system maintenance in your state and who is trained and authorized by the manufacturer of the brand system installed in your home. If the company completes the inspection and finds major problems or suggests your system needs a complete overhaul or replacement you should consider getting at least one other company to inspect the system so that you have another opinion; while most HVAC contractors are honest and legitimate, you could end up with that one shady character!

When your HVAC contractor performs this inspection, be sure to follow the steps being completed, ask questions and take notes. This way you’ll know what tasks are important and which you may be able to do yourself and what things to look for when inspecting the system yourself between annual maintenance.

What’s involved with Servicing a Central Heating System?

A large percentage of suburban American homes have central HVAC (heating and air conditioning systems) that use ductwork to vent warm or cool air throughout the home as needed. Most of these central systems burn either oil or gas, but the basic service procedures are similar and should get an annual checkup.

Failing to perform a yearly cleaning and inspection can reduce the life of your heating system and reduce its efficiency or worse; a blocked HVAC system could cause carbon monoxide to be pumped into your home, creating unsafe living conditions, or your system could fail altogether.

Most central HVAC systems have fairly standard components and if you are handy with basic tools and home maintenance tasks you can do at least part of the work yourself. Basic heating system maintenance you can perform yourself includes:

• Before the first cold spell of the season, test your heating system; check that the thermostat and fan switch operate properly and that warm air flows freely from all vents.
• If your system burns natural gas, check the pilot light. The flame should be clear and blue; if the pilot light flame is orange or yellow you may have a problem and should call a professional.
• One of the most important tasks you can perform yourself is to regularly clean or replace all filters in your system, something you should do every 60 to 90 days or at whatever interval your system’s manufacturer recommends. Clean filters allow air to flow freely, enabling your heater to run at optimal efficiency and extending the useful life of your heating system.
• Always be sure that heating vents are clear of obstructions such as furnishings, draperies, etc. While you may not like the way vents in your floors, walls or ceilings look, you do not want to block the air flow!

Before you work on your home’s heating or cooling system, you should take these steps:

• Check to be sure your system has power; check the circuit breaker or fuse. Some systems will also have a reset button and/or a separate power switch; be sure you know the location and operation of these features. If you aren’t sure, ask your HVAC contractor or technician during the annual inspection and make notes for future reference.
• Check the settings on the thermostat; set it five or so degrees warmer that the current temperature inside your home when testing it for proper operation just to be sure the system comes on.
• Be sure your system has plenty of heating oil if your system burns oil. Otherwise, if your system burns natural gas, check to be sure the gas supply is on and the pilot light is lit.

Always follow your HVAC manufacturer’s instruction manual and take safety precautions when performing system maintenance:

• Before you begin work on any heating or cooling system, check that you have turned off all power to the system. Trip the circuit breaker or remove the fuse that controls power to the system at the main service panel or, if you’re not sure which circuit runs the system, trip the main circuit breaker or remove the main fuse to shut off all power to your home. In some cases, the furnace will have its own separate service panel; if so trip the breaker or remove the fuse there.
• If the circuit trips or the fuse blows repeatedly when you try to turn on the system, you may have a potentially serious electrical issue and should call a professional HVAC technician to inspect the problem.
• If you ever smell natural gas or heating oil in your home, don’t attempt to shut off the fuel source or turn lights on or off; get out of the house immediately and call your gas company or fire department and report a leak.

Our Fireplace Guide gives you hundreds of ideas and tips on wood and gas burning fireplaces, vent free fireplaces, wood stoves, fireplace surround and mantel design and much more. Below you can view all of our fireplace design photos. Click on any image to view a full-size picture.

» Go Back to Fireplace Guide

Feeling the squeeze in your small bathroom? You’re not alone. Lack of bathroom storage is a problem many people face.

There are steps you can take to increase your storage either in a remodel or your existing space without moving to a home with a bigger bathroom. And clearing your bathroom clutter is worth your time.

A well-ordered bathroom is more conductive to relaxing, bathing and grooming than one that is littered with half-used shampoo bottles and damp towels.

Good storage will bring the clutter under control. Built-in cupboards and vanity units generally provide bathroom storage, but there are also situations where freestanding cabinets, tails, racks and containers are a useful addition or a practical alternative.

Don’t only make it fit, make it beautiful too! The best bathroom storage ideas keep your necessities at hand and add clever decorative elements all on their own.

Bathroom Cabinets and Shelf Units

Bathroom storage should combine open shelves or glazed cabinets for display (like perfumes or bath salts), and closed storage items for those items you would prefer to hide. In bathrooms where space is limited, the traditional bathroom cabinet mounted on the wall above the basin closes off the essentials you don’t want on display.

If the cabinet is glass fronted and doubles as a display, aim to arrange your belongings like decorative still-lives. Combine large things with small, such as stacks of towels with a group of perfume bottles. You can also achieve a sense of transparency by using translucent materials such as frosted glass, colored or frosted acrylic, or sheer fabric.

You might prefer storage trolleys (a cart with casters, a flat top and storage shelves or cabinets built in) which are designed to be manoeuvrable and may be fitted with brakes so they can be parked wherever they are needed. These mobile units range in style from mesh or polished metal trolleys to contemporary wooden designs and rustic painted cupboards.

Freestanding shelves are efficient space savers. Wall space is even more valuable with the popularity of pedestal and wall-mounted sinks without cabinets. Fit narrow shelves in preference to wider ones. They take up less space, look sleek and the contents can be seen at a glance. You can also cut your shelves to fit any space, great for oddly shaped bathrooms.

For bathroom storage shelving and cabinetry, you have choices in many materials:

• Glass shelves must be made from special toughened glass and have polished edges. They are ideal for small bathroom spaces since they allow light to pass through.
• Painted shelves are practical and easy to refresh with a new coat of paint when they begin to look shabby.
• Wire mesh is well suited to shelves, but the mesh will not contain spilt liquids.
• Naturally finished wood shelving can be an attractive option

Towel Racks and Storage

Obviously towel racks are essential for storage in your bathroom, but also for your health. A humid atmosphere makes textiles musty, so a well-placed, ventilated towel rack will keep bad smells at bay. You can choose unheated, heated, or rails made of wood, plastic or metal, and either wall-mounted or floor-standing.

The wall-mounted types take the form of a ring or a single or double straight rail supported on brackets. Keep rings for hand towels handy by the basin. You need at least one bar to accommodate a large wet towel, attach to the back of the door to save extra space.

Floor-standing racks usually have more that one bar to allow several towels to air at once. This is great for a large family with a pile up of towels. We know how teens dump piles of wet towels on each other so they never dry.
Handy racks and holders to store the little essentials

It’s the small amenities in the bathroom, the soaps, sponges, shaving equipment, toothbrushes and toilet rolls that spread the biggest mess. These racks and holders are essential to decrease the clutter and increase the order in your bathroom.

Without a doubt, you will need some wall-mounted holders to keep the soaps, sponges and shampoos within easy reach in the shower. Typically they come in wire baskets or with suction pads for tiled or glass walls.

The bridge-like bath racks are a great investment for a long soak. Along with storing the necessary bathing equipment, you also have a book rest, candleholder and spot for your shaving mirror.

Use the amenities to your display advantage. Create symmetry and order by organizing small, loose items into matching containers. Decanting liquid soaps, shampoos, and bubble bath into clear bottles or putting packaged items into clear containers results in clear presentation, with the added benefit of banishing labels.

Even the laundry basket can be considered in a creative twist. Baskets don’t have to be made of wicker, choose another moisture-resistant, washable material like plywood. Attach a lid, and it can double function as a seat.

Double Up Your Furnishings as Storage Units

In most bathrooms, furnishings are limited to the essentials, but if you add a chair the atmosphere immediately becomes more relaxed and inviting. In a large, well-ventilated bathroom decorated in traditional or country style, an upholstered armchair brings comfort and a touch of luxury, but in a smaller space, light, moisture-resistant wicker or loom is a better choice. Bathrooms that are too small for a chair may still have room for a stool or folding café chair.

The extra surfaces and storage provided by a small table, chest of drawers or small cupboards are not, essential in a bathroom, but if you are aiming for a softer, more lived-in look, they are a worthwhile addition.

A small table or cabinet drawn alongside the tub makes a suitable place to put your book, a drink and the radio while you indulge in a relaxing bath, and a chest of drawers with a mirror hung above it will visually open the room.

Unify Your Bathroom with Color

Whatever storage solutions you choose for your bathroom, for them to be effective they must give the bathroom an overall feeling of calm and order. Repeating your bathroom scheme in your storage will work to unite the room and give and overall sense of calm and order:

One trick to unifying storage vessels with a bathroom’s design scheme is to keep everything pale or white. White storage makes a space look neat and fresh, and integrates especially well if the moldings and fixtures in the room are also white.
If white isn’t your style, polished metal containers (silver, nickel and stainless steel are always elegant) reflect the palette of the room, while clear or translucent containers let the colors of the provisions inside shine through.

A Few More Bathroom Storage Tips

• Hang things on the walls, build in storage, or add a piece of furniture. An effective storage scheme usually combines all three approaches, but you’ll want to consider the amount of available floor space; the placement of fixtures, doors, and windows; and the style of the room.
• Remember the common-sense rule; always store objects near where you plan to use them.
• Using wall space for storage has become more important with the popularity of pedestal and wall-mounted sinks, which eliminate the cabinets normally found under the sink. One often unused wall space is the area above the toilet.
• Consider bolting a shallow cabinet to the studs here (be sure it’s above the head level of a seated person). You can also purchase shelving that fits over the tank of the toilet and provides storage space for towels, shampoos, and the like.
• If there’s space beside the toilet, a wall-mounted cabinet can screen the toilet somewhat from the rest of the room without taking up as much space as a floor-mounted cabinet. Or use this space for towel rods or hooks.
• When you add a cabinet to a wall, use open shelves to showcase decorative items like perfume or bath salt bottles, and enclosed shelves and drawers to hide workaday items.
• For a coordinated, well-planned look, built-ins can’t be beat. If you have limited floor space, look for places to recess storage; for example, there might be room for niches between wall studs. You may also be able to borrow space from an adjacent garage or guest bedroom to provide more bath storage.
• Niches inserted between the studs in the shower wall or above the tub are especially helpful. If built-ins are not possible, consider units specifically designed to suspend from the showerhead or affix to the wall. Racks on corner poles are another option for the shower.
• A tall freestanding cabinet set alongside the sink or toilet may allow you to put a large wall mirror above the sink, visually opening the room.
• Baskets, boxes, or other covered containers work well on counters or open shelves.
• A row of hooks or hooks with multiple arms will accommodate more towels than a single towel rod. Towel bars that swing back against the wall and stacking units attached to the wall are other space savers. But you’ll probably want at least one rod or bar for letting a wet towel dry out-for instance, on the back of the door.
• If you think about what you need for your bathroom storage, and think of the ways to create the additional storage space, you are certain to come up with some great looking (and functional) bathroom storage ideas!

» Go Back to The Complete Bathroom Decorating Guide

» View Bathroom Decorating Photo Gallery Page 2

Does your bathroom look like it came from the “Brady Bunch” TV set? Bathroom décor is one of the easiest and relatively inexpensive ways to spruce up your home. If your shower curtain was purchased in 1968, the bath rugs in 1972 and the guest towels haven’t been updated in the past ten years, its time for a change!

If your budget includes updating faucets and sinks, start there! No need to rush into accents when there’s work to be done!

But if all you are after is a trip to your local bedding and bath store and 10 minutes to toss together your new look, then obviously fixtures aren’t in the plan! If you need to do a little bathroom maintenance, try checking out our tips and step-by-step instructions on Shower and Bathtub Caulking.

Getting Started on Redecorating Your Bathroom

Whether you’re planning an entire bathroom remodel, decorating a bathroom for the first time or just need to update an older bathroom, you’ve come to the right place. Rafter Tales has assembled the most comprehensive and authoritative set of content on bathroom design, décor and remodeling possible for you. Read on to explore hundreds of tips and ideas you can use in your new bathroom design!

Bathroom Fixtures and Cabinets

With thousands of bathroom hardware and fixture options available, how do you select faucets, shower heads and other fixtures that will fit your new bathroom design? We’ve got all kinds of great ideas for you in these complete bathroom fixtures, cabinetry and vanity guides:

• Shower Faucet Buyer’s Guide
• Bathroom Sink Faucet Buyers Guide
• Choosing Bathroom Vanities and Cabinets
• Comparing Bathroom Cabinet Features

Choosing a Bathroom Décor Theme

Themes and variations play an important role in any interior design; bathrooms are no different although understating a room theme is especially important in the bathroom, since function is so critical and space is often limited.

Read our full story on Tuscan Bathroom Design if your tastes run toward the Italian country look. Or, if you like contemporary style, you’ll find what you’re seeking in our story on Contemporary Bathroom Design. Or consider Decorating Your Bathroom in Vintage Style.

If you prefer something a bit more down home, read our Rustic Bathroom Design and Cottage Country Style Bathroom articles for some ideas on making your bathroom cozy.

If you live near the sea or love the serenity of cool tones and water themes, have a look at our pieces on Nautical Decor Themes and Beach Décor to transform your bathroom into an indoor oasis.

Bring nature indoors with the ideas and pictures in our Botanical Bathroom Design story on how to give your bathroom the feeling of a garden of paradise.

Going Upscale in Your Bathroom

We cover Elegant Bathroom Design if you want something a bit more traditional, rich and ornate in bathroom décor.

And if you want to do a really special bathroom theme, check out our feature, Designing a Spa Bathroom and transform your bathroom in to a home spa or take it even further and learn more in our Outdoor Home Spas and Bathrooms and Outdoor Showers and Spa Tubs feature stories.

No matter what you’re looking for in bathroom design and decorating, we’ve got some great tips, ideas, pictures and videos to get your going and come back to as your project unfolds and you need to come “back to the well”!

» View Bathroom Decorating Photo Gallery Page 1

» View Bathroom Decorating Photo Gallery Page 2

Where to start? That’s often the hardest question people stumble on when considering how to find the right contractor for a home improvement, remodeling or custom home building project.

Personal Referrals the Best Resource for Locating a Contractor

The obvious answer is to first think of projects neighbors, friends and family in your area have completed recently. If anybody you know has completed a home improvement project that was similar to the one you have in mind or knows somebody who has within the last year, start by inquiring about how happy they were with their contractor.

As with most services, word of mouth is one of the most important sources of new clients for home builders and contractors. Those who build a loyal clientele over the years seldom want for more work and almost never need to advertise. So, if you want to find the best contractor for your upcoming home improvement or remodeling project, your best bet is to find the one everyone likes to use in your area for a given specialty.

Check Online Contractor Ratings

Online contractor rating services are probably your next best bet. Services such as and are like virtual versions of the age old word of mouth means of finding the right local contractor, offering consumers reviews of thousands of local contractors by others who have contracted them.

If fact, even if you get a great referral from a friend or neighbor, you might want to check contractors out online to see how other people’s experiences compare. Finding a contractor with a high number of positive online reviews helps you see how consistent the quality of workmanship and service are for any given company.

You can contribute to helping others find the best contractor too by providing your feedback online so that other can benefit from your own experience with the contractor you choose.

Of course, you could also let your fingers do the walking and use the good old Yellow Pages, but it will be far easier and potentially more accurate to just type in “Plumbers, Canton, OH” or “Cabinetmakers, Atlanta” into a search engine; Google, Yahoo and MSN all “localize” results these days, allowing you to quickly find contractors in your local area and see if you can find reviews, a web site, etc. with more information about a contractor who specialize in the trade you need.

Initial Phone Call to Potential Contractors

Once you have a list of between 3 and 5 contractors to call, prepare a list of questions to ask each one when you talk to them. Your list may include items such as:

• How long have you been in business?
• How many employees do you have?
• Do you do and/or supervise all the work and if not who is responsible for the quality of the work to be performed?
• How do you handle change orders?
• How do you guarantee your work?

Calling Contractor References

Before you invest time in having contractors visit you to look at your home and being to prepare a quote, you should next call several references for each contractor you are considering. Be sure to specify you wish to speak with past clients who had projects similar to yours and at least one whose project was completed over a year ago, so that you can see how well the contractor’s work has held up over time.

As with the contractor phone interview, be sure to prepare a list of questions in advance including things such as:

• How did you find the overall quality and timeliness of the contractor’s work?
• How well has the work held up? Are you still satisfied with the materials and installation?
• How easy was it for you to reach the contractor?
• Did the contractor complete the work on schedule and on budget as promised?
• If not, how were any misunderstandings resolved and were you satisfied with the resolutions? Note that in any complex home improvement or remodeling projects problems are bound to arise; the key to anticipating your satisfaction lies in how well a contractor handles such issues, including scheduling delays, cost overruns for unanticipated difficulties, etc.

Getting Multiple Quotes

If you don’t find a contractor you feel comfortable with after an initial phone call and follow up conversations with references, then go back to searching for other candidates. In order to negotiate the best price and get ideas and feedback on your project you want to obtain quotes from multiple contractors until you have at least 2 or 3 candidates you believe are good candidates before making your final selection.

Most people will not follow this tip and are bound to overpay and/or miss out on the opportunity to save money and, more importantly, find the best contractor for their project!

Observe each contractor candidate carefully when they come to visit you and see your home to prepare an initial quote:

Are they listening to you and seem to be knowledgeable and trustworthy? Remember that trust is one of the most important aspects to a contractor-client relationship, so use your instincts when it comes to determining whether a contractor will be a good fit for you or not!

In the third and final installment of our three-part series, we’ll discuss how to negotiate with your contractor(s) and how to manage them throughout the project so that you will be satisfied with the final outcome.

So you’ve invested a ton of money into your new 60 inch HDTV flat screen and state-of-the-art 7.1 home theater sound system, but will you enjoy your new media or home theater room to its fullest potential?

Many people make the mistake of waiting until after they purchase all the home theater room equipment before deciding what type of seating to buy. Worse yet, they may have spent their entire home theater budget on equipment and not have enough left over for comfortable theater seating.

But if you think about it; whenever you’ve gone to a friend’s home to watch a movie or sporting event, was there enough seating for everyone to have a good view, watch in comfort and have a place to set food and beverages while enjoying the show? If not, you probably didn’t find your home theater experience as satisfying as you would have liked, regardless how big the viewing screen, how deep the bass sound coming from the sub woofer or how great the rear speaker sound effects!

Home Theater Furniture Planning and Layout

The first thing you’ll want to do is decide how many people your media room should seat comfortably, based on how many people live in your home and how often you entertain friends, neighbors and extended family. If you typically only have three or four people watching the TV, then you might go for spacious movie theater loungers or recliners, with built in cup holders and plush leather upholstery. On the other hand, if you regularly entertain a larger group, then it might make more sense to go with sofas or movie theater seats arranged in several rows for an authentic movie theater experience!

Plan your seating for the best viewing angle; you want the center of the screen to be at eye level and not too far to one side or the other. And while not everyone will have the optimal view, take advantage of the prime viewing area by placing your most comfortable seating in these positions so that at least you will enjoy the best view when watching a movie alone or with your partner.

While some people may have a room dedicated entirely as a home theater, in many cases this will be a media room used for general entertainment and as a day-to-day living space. As such, you want to consider the décor, theme and overall design of the room for the multiple activities and uses it is intended to serve.

Casual Home Theater Seating

In a family room or great room that also serves as a media room, casual seating is usually the best choice. Choose sofas, loveseats and/or recliners that can be arranged in an L or U-shape configuration so that everyone can easily view the television.

And while some people will have a better view than others with a casual seating arrangement, you will also have a better layout for conversation and hanging out. This is a perfect arrangement when people are casually watching a sporting event but the TV is not the primary center of attention.

Dedicated Theater Seating

If you are serious about setting your home theater up for maximum viewing enjoyment, then specially designed home theater seating makes more sense. The two types of seating include theater loungers or recliners or traditional movie theater-style seats.

Home Theater Loungers or Recliners

The home theater loungers are actually the best type of seating for a home theater in my own opinion; I would rather be able to recline my seat and kick up my feet after I’m done eating my popcorn. If I want to sit in an upright theater seat I’m going out to the movies. I spend more time playing XBOX 360 or watching sports than viewing movies as if I were a movie director reviewing takes, so comfort is king in my book and I just don’t find movie theater seats that relaxing. But this is a personal matter and you have a lot of choices.

Since many loungers or recliners are now specifically designed for media rooms, you can also find great features such as cup holder in the armrests center consoles with a mini fridge or flip up top that can be turned one way as a flat table for playing card games, etc. while you watch the show or flip it over and the other side has molded plastic wells to hold drinks in place when you’re playing Wii and things are likely to get bounced around a bit!

Another popular trend in home theater seating is the wall-hugger feature; this lets a theater lounger fully recline with out needing more than a couple of inches clearance behind the chair to a wall.

“Hybrid” Home Theater Seating Arrangement

Some people find the home theater lounger types of chairs less attractive than traditional sofas and chairs, but if comfort and convenience are your biggest desire they are tough to beat. The one I have in my gaming and media room is a Lazy-boy sofa with recliners on both ends and an ottoman we can move around and which serves as a foot rest when somebody is sitting in the middle. We also have a Lazy-boy recliner chair placed for prime viewing, so the room comfortably seats four.

We added a plush area rug on the floor that matches the room décor and makes a comfy place to sit on the floor and a couple of bean bag chairs are kept behind the sofa for extra seating when needed. And best of all; when I’m alone and want to take a little afternoon nap, the sofa is long enough to stretch out completely flat and the armrests are soft enough to use as a pillow! For us the reclining sofa and extra reclining chair was the perfect compromise between regular sofas and dedicated move theater seating.

Movie Theater Seats

For the ultimate Cinema experience, purists insist that movie theater seats are the only way to go! Designed and engineered strictly for the themed, dedicated home theater room, these have evolved to include features such as “bass shakers” or “tactile transducers” so that you can really feel the bass track, snack trays and storage bays to keep stuff handy, motorized recliners and vibrating massage modes for added comfort.

Most theater-style seats come in 2, 3, 4 or 5 person configurations and range in price depending on features and quality of the construction and materials. If you plan to have multiple rows, consider having the floor in your media room raised slightly in the back rows to provide optimal viewing for everyone.

Genuine or simulated faux leather are popular and an almost endless variety of fabric materials are available; if you like the smooth feel of leather it can’t be beat, or go with the woven fabric or micro-fiber material of your choice if you prefer a warm and soft feel. Look for signs of quality construction, including corner blocks screwed or glued together, foam core seats, solid joinery and kiln-dried wood frames.

A few other things to look for when selecting home theater seating include deep, wide seats with adjustable lumbar support, wide, cushioned arm rests and foam padding and steel coil springs.

Home Theater Decor Themes

To give your home theater or media room a truly unique designer look, choose a theme as you decide on the design, layout and features you want to include.

• Cinema Theme – A traditional Cinema or movie house theme is always popular. You can purchase framed movie posters, buy a an old-fashioned popcorn maker, add a pinball machine in one corner and put up red velvet movie theater drapes for an authentic movie theater theme.
• Sports Pub Theme – Another way to go for the sports buff is to add multiple TV screens and a wet bar to give your media room the feel of a sports bar or pub. If this is you then you already know what to do with all your pennants, autographed memorabilia and sports posters!
• Add a Karaoke Stage – If you really wanted to do something different, you might add a small stage for the kids to put on plays and puppet shows, have karaoke night or other fun stage events. This works very well if you have a projection HDTV unit and motorized screen; you’ll have great fun using motorized curtains to open the show in style.

Home Theater Seating Tips

When designing your home theater or media room, the primary considerations should be how to comfortably seat the number of people you will most often have, the size and shape of the room and your budget. Follow these tips as you plan your home theater space:

• Don’t wait until after you buy home theater equipment to plan the room layout and furniture; an integral design should consider seating, screen and speaker placement together.
• Measure your space and try to plan seating so that people are at least six feet away from the screen; even further if you have a projection TV and 100 inch or larger screen.
• Plan your space for an “optimal” number of people and then use chairs from other rooms in the house, bean bag chairs or even folding chairs if needed to accommodate a larger crowd for special events like a Super Bowl party.
• It really pays to shop around and compare features and prices; you may not know exactly the right sofa or home theater seats until you actually see and sit in it.
• Be sure to plan for adequate lighting, side tables, a coffee table, artwork, etc. that will accent and enhance your home theater seating.
• Install motorized window shades or blinds if needed to control window light and glare.
• Set your budget before you do your final shopping and selection; that way you can adjust your decisions on specific features, materials quality, etc. as needed. Some retailers may also be willing to discount if you purchase an entire “package”; we did this with Lazy Boy and were very satisfied with the overall value, quality and features! 

There was a time when a shower faucet was nothing more than a functional piece of bathroom hardware, but no more!

Today you will find a shower faucet to fit any bathroom décor from modern to Tuscan, in finishes from shiny stainless steel to brushed nickel, handheld faucets to showerheads with fluting and other decorative design cues.

Even the function of a showerhead has changed dramatically over the last 20 years; with multiple sprays and mists, thermostatic and scald controls available in the latest high tech shower faucet innovations.

From style to function, major brands and installation tips, Rafter Tales is pleased to offer you our shower faucet buyer’s guide to help you select shower hardware that meets your budget, functional and design needs!

Luxury Showers More Popular than Bathtubs

Many people have eschewed the bathtub in favor of larger and more convenient shower installations that provide the relaxing feel of a spa in their home.

Others, who once thought an outdoor hot tub or Jacuzzi would be nice have opted for the convenience of a large jetted tub in the master bath or combined their tub and shower to convert their master bath to a home spa!

Either way, the emphasis on design and function has taken shower and bathtub fixtures a whole new level in the home.

But they’re Only Plumbing Fixtures!

True, shower and bathtub controls and faucets are only plumbing fixtures, but they can make or break your bathroom décor; updating older faucets can save water and money while also adding style and completing the look of your master bath, kid’s or guest bathroom.

While chrome can look great in a contemporary style bathroom, you may want to step up to a nickel finish to complete the look of your traditional bath with a softer, more upscale look.

Showers are possibly the most popular ways to bathe and one of the most relaxing areas of the home. The water temperature can be varied, the soap is washed away, and you feel refreshed and rejuvenated from the water as it sprays over you.

Like most things in life, we all have different preferences when it comes to water speed, temperature, and pressure. So it makes sense to carefully consider the fittings that control your shower experience. If you design the perfect soothing shower for the morning, you’ll be improving your mood for the day.

There are two main aspects to consider when choosing your shower faucet; the type of shower head you prefer (which determines how your shower feels) and the faucet fitting (which must be considered in terms of how your shower has been designed).

Shower heads, Body Sprays and Mists

These days you can choose the standard shower head or surround yourself with mists and sprays galore. Some of the types of shower heads available include:

• Wall-mount shower heads are affordable. The shower head adjusts via a ball joint where it joins the neck. Models that offer varying spray types fit the needs of most users.
• Ceiling-mount shower heads work well in areas where the ceiling is too low to accommodate a wall-mount head. Some are also quite large and produce a waterfall-like feel. Because the spray comes from overhead, it is difficult to avoid getting your hair wet when washing in this type of shower.
• Handheld showerheads clip on to a 3- to 6-foot-long hose that lets you spray the water where you want it. It’s a versatile choice that makes it easy to wash your hair, rinse off, or scrub down the shower itself.
• Sliding bar showerheads slide up and down on a bar mounted on the wall. Because the spray height is extremely easy to adjust, it’s a good option when the users vary in height.
• Body spray and body mist shower sprays are installed in vertical rows on opposite or adjacent walls, creating a crisscross water massage between knee and shoulder levels that lets you wash up quickly without getting your hair wet.



• Body spa shower panels are installed against one or more walls of the shower stall. The panels are equipped with water jets arranged vertically from knee to neck level. Similar to the jets in a whirlpool tub, the water jets pump out and circulate large quantities of water for a powerful massage.
• The fittings for the faucet you choose will depend on the space you are working within. In the shower there are four main types to choose from. A main determinant of what you can use depends on whether you have a bath/shower or simple shower because single showers tend to simply have wall-mounted fittings.

Shower Faucet Types

• Single-handle faucets have one spout and one handle that control the flow of both hot and cold water. They are generally safer and more convenient to use than their two-handled counterparts. With practice you can find the temperature you want on the first try. You can also turn the water on with your elbow or wrist when your hands are full or dirty.
• Center-set faucets combine a spout and handle(s) in one unit. These faucets have either single-handle or double-handle controls. Most are designed for a three-hole basin, with the outside holes spaced 4 inches from center to center. However, some have a single-post design that requires only one hole.
• Spread-fit faucets separate spout and handles. The connection between them is concealed below the sink deck. Installers can adapt them to fit holes spaced from 4 to 10 inches apart. You can individualize them even more if they are mounted on a countertop next to the sink. For example you can place the spout on a rear corner and the handles off to one side. These faucets are handy for tight installations that lack the room. They also are ideal for whirlpool tubs, so that the handles are accessible from outside the tub for filling. This type of faucet offers a more traditional look than single-handle faucets and you can combine different style handles and spouts for a custom look.
• Wall-mount faucets are attached to the wall as opposed to the sink or the counter. These faucets are the most common for showers that don’t double as baths.

Shower Fixture Finishes

Most faucets are manufactured of brass, plated with one of four materials; chrome, nickel, stainless steel or brass. Chrome is typically the least costly finish and you’ll find plenty to choose from, including many with an enamel finish in white or other colors.

Nickel is quite popular, with a brushed finish that gives a more muted metal finish that will not show fingerprints and water spots as much as polished chrome.

For even higher quality and a bit different look, you can go with stainless steel. Stainless fixtures may be polished smooth for a highly reflective finish or brushed for a softer look that is easier to keep looking clean.

For the ultimate in luxury and longevity, a brass finished shower faucet and showerhead will give your bathroom a true designer look; many fixtures may feature brass and stainless steel or nickel to give them an even more unique design pattern.

Shower Valves

Dedicated shower valve bodies are commonly used today; these may have a rubber disc that closes against a metal seat or a more expensive cartridge-style system with a plastic or brass cartridge instead for added longevity. The best units feature a hard ceramic disc that is almost indestructible.

Temperature Control

If you’re looking for something really cool, try one of the shower faucet units that incorporate temperature control; these models allow you to set a temperature ring, enabling the faucet to automatically adjust to that preset temperature. Of course, you and your partner may not always agree on where to leave the temperature set for your ideal showering comfort!

Scald Protection

If young kids will be using the shower, you might want to consider a unit that provides scald control; in this case you set the maximum temperature to a safe setting, above which the shower faucet will never rise.

Shower Faucet Brands

While there are literally hundreds of makes of bath and shower faucets, a few of the leading brands include:

Danze – Danze has quickly become a leading US manufacturer of bath and shower faucets, with over 1800 products available in many styles and finishes manufactured with a vertically integrated supply chain, all backed by strong customer service and a drip-free warranty.

Delta Faucet – With several brands including Delta, Brizo and Peerless, Delta Faucet Company is one of the world’s largest manufacturers of faucets, valves and hundreds of other home improvement products. Brizo is their premium brand.

Grohe – Offering a complete product line of kitchen and bathroom faucets, Grohe offers an extensive range of products including faucets, showers and faucets for every style of interior, from classic period contours to sculptural modern designs.

Kohler – Long known as a premium brand, Kohler offers a wide range of kitchen and bathroom faucets through a network of over 31,000 associates worldwide. Introducing new and innovative products with superior function and form has been a tradition at Kohler for over 100 years.

Moen – Since introducing the world to the single-handle faucet, Moen has become known throughout the industry for many innovations including a washer-less cartridge system to replaces seals and washers to ease faucet maintenance, pressure-balanced shower valves to reduce the risk of shower shock, lifetime warranties and toll-free consumer help to assist with installation and replacement questions.

 » Go Back to The Complete Bathroom Decorating Guide

In most cases it will be most cost effective to install a central air conditioner when your home is being built. Even if an existing home doesn’t have central A/C, as long as it already has ductwork and a central heating system, retrofitting air conditioning can be relatively straightforward and cost effective. Older homes that do not have a central heating system will involve greater cost and complexity since ductwork must be added.

Regardless which of these three scenarios you are facing, this guide will help you understand central air conditioning concepts, components, equipment brands, contractor selection and costs and is intended as a helpful resource for both homeowners and contractors alike.

While most do-it-yourself homeowners and general contractors will opt to have a central air conditioning system installed professionally, its important to understand how central air works, the components required, which manufacturers and brands to consider and how to get the highest quality installation services at the best value.

Whether you are building a new home or doing major renovation on an older home, a central Heating and Air Conditioning (HVAC) system is a major component and provides a very good return on investment for the homeowner, improving the overall comfort and resale value of the home. There are three main things to consider when shopping for a home A/C system; cooling capacity, efficiency and service life.

How Central Air Conditioning Systems Function

The fundamental concept behind any air conditioning system relies upon the law of thermal dynamics which states that if hot and cold spaces are separated by a “medium” the transfer through the medium is from hot to cold.

Heat follows cold, so a central air conditioner draws warm, humid air across fin tubes on the evaporator coil. This causes the air to condense. Moisture is collected in a pan below the coil and drained off, helping reduce humidity inside the living space.

The coil must be continually cooled, which is the function of the compressor and condenser coil in the outdoor unit; hot air is returned from the air handler to the compressor. The compressor pressurizes liquid/gas refrigerant, heating it to a gaseous state and sending it to the adjacent condenser coil, where it is cooled and returned to the evaporator unit indoors.

This repeated cycle of removing warm air from inside the house to outside and pumping in cooler air is, of course, what makes the temperature inside the living space more comfortable on a hot day! The amount of energy needed to cool your home is an important factor in determining the overall cost of operating your central air conditioner.

Central Home Air Conditioning Components

HVAC system components are generally divided between indoor and outdoor appliances, with the heat-producing, heaviest components such as the compressor and condenser coil located outside the home and the evaporator being installed in the plenum of the furnace, typically in the attic space, garage or other service location indoors. These indoor and outdoor segments are connected a low-voltage relay cable and refrigeration lines.

In most cases, the cool air will be circulated into the home via insulated, flexible ductwork installed in the attic space and/or under the subflooring to vents in the ceilings, walls and/or floors inside the living space. This is very cost effective in a home that uses forced-air heating as well. If the home uses a radiant floor heating or baseboard heating system, the overall cost of installing ductwork for central air conditioning entails additional expense since a dedicated blower and ductwork are required for the central air conditioner only in this case.

Carrier Corporation and other manufacturers also offer a ductless system, which employs several smaller indoor evaporator coils, each with a blower to circulate air within a given portion of the living space. The units are installed in exterior walls, with refrigeration, condensation and electrical lines running outside the house from each evaporator back to the outdoor compressor unit.

The costs of a ductless versus traditional system must be weighed to determine which is more cost effective and will be based on the size of the home, cooling capacity required, number of evaporators required and distance from each to the compressor unit. A ductless system is typically only used in a home without forced-air heating; otherwise cost and simplicity make ductwork the better route in the majority of cases.

Central Air Conditioning Cost Factors

Of course the up front cost of a central a/c system includes the air conditioning components, the ductwork, contractor labor and building permits, which can run from as little as about $3,000 to over $7,000. To replace an existing system could cost less than $2,000 if the ductwork, wiring and other non-system components are operable and do not require replacement.

Perhaps more important is determining the ongoing cost of operating and maintaining the system. As a result of the National Energy Conservation Policy, new regulations were introduced in the United States in 1990 to establish minimum energy efficiency standards for heating and cooling equipment. This has helped enhance efficiency dramatically from the systems made fifteen or twenty years ago!

The rating given to new central air conditioner condenser units is known as the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER), which is determined by dividing the cooling capacity of an air conditioner by the electrical input needed to operate the unit. The lowest SEER now allowed for new units is now 13. The highest-rated systems currently available are SEER 20. These ratings have improved dramatically in the last ten years and will continue to improve even further.

Higher efficiency is achieved primarily by using more efficient, multi-speed compressors and increasing the size of the condenser coil and fin tubes. Additionally, new units use R4-10A refrigerant instead of the ozone-depleting CFC R22 refrigerant (Freon) used previously, making them more environmentally friendly.

Central Air Conditioning System Capacity and Efficiency

A licensed, experienced HVAC contractor should be able to size and specify the equipment best suited to your home, factoring the age, quality of windows, insulation, number of floors, square and cubic feet of living space, and local factors such as climate, humidity, local energy costs and average number of days the system will be needed to operate annually.
If your system is too small it will work too hard and if it’s too large, it may cycle on and off too frequently, reducing efficiency and the ability to reduce humidity inside the home.

It takes years of experience to know how to properly size and specify a central air conditioning system so leave it to a pro. Consult several reputable HVAC contractors to compare their specifications, opinions and recommendations before you make a final decision.

Deciding how much efficiency you need is a matter of personal economics, comfort level and environmental concerns. You may or may not save enough on a SEER 15 or higher system to offset the higher installation costs versus the lower ongoing costs of operating a system with a lower SEER.

With rising energy costs, the economics are shifting, so that the additional $200 or $300 it costs to increase your system from one SEER to the next might easily pay off over the service life of the system, especially if you live in a very hot climate where air conditioning is needed frequently!

The other important factor to consider is the warranty terms; paying more up front could save you money down the road. Proper installation may be more important to getting the maximum service life than the system components, so be sure your HVAC contractor is trained and certified by the manufacturer whose equipment is being installed. Also consider purchasing an extended warranty or maintenance contract on your central air conditioning system.

Central Air Conditioning Equipment Brands

While many other suppliers exist, we have provided basic dealers on the most prominent north American HVAC manufacturers below:

Carrier and Bryant

Both owned today by United Technologies Corporation, Carrier and Bryant are probably the most widely recognized brands in north America and the largest manufacturer worldwide. Willis Haviland Carrier is credited with inventing the modern air conditioner in 1902, launching Carrier as a premier manufacturer in the industry.

Charles Bryant followed Carrier, founding Bryant in 1904. Between these two brands, UTC offers hundreds of products including air conditioning systems, heat pumps, furnaces, boilers, duct free systems, ventilators, controls, thermostats, humidifiers, air purifiers and more.

Carrier and Bryant home comfort systems include multiple product lines within both brands to meet almost any home central air conditioning system needs.

Goodman

In business since 1982, Goodman Manufacturing is known as a low cost provider of central air conditioning systems. Founded by ex-air conditioning contractor, Harold Goodman, the company focuses on providing affordable, reliable cooling and heating products, backed by industry-leading product warranties.

Lennox

Founded in 1895 in Iowa by Dave Lennox, who invented the world’s first riveted-steel furnace, Lennox Industries continues to make some of the most efficient air conditioning systems on the market, with over 60 leading-edge products and a network of over 6,000 dealers.

Today, Lennox’s claim to fame is having introduced the first SEER 20 air conditioning system, pushing the efficiency envelope to new limits!

Trane

Norwegian immigrant James Trane founded his company in Wisconsin in 1885 with the invention of the innovative, low-pressure Trane Vapor Heating System. Nearly 100 years later, Trane acquired the air conditioning unit of General Electric to become a leading supplier in the industry.

Innovation continues to drive Trane, which now operates as a unit of Ingersoll Rand, offering systems under the Trane and American Standard brands. Promoting the trend to combine air purity and comfort, Trane offers whole-house systems designed to remove almost 90 percent of the particles and allergens from air inside a home’s living space!

York, Luxaire and Coleman

Johnson Controls Company owns these industry brands, offering a complete line up of home air conditioning products and a large network of distributors and dealers. A storied history led to these three brands coming under the ownership of Johnson Controls, which offer a complete product lineup that competes against the other two major north American manufacturers; Trane and UTC.

Central Air Conditioning Buying Tips

• When buying a new HVAC system, the most important decisions to make are selecting the right local company to install and service the system and the efficiency rating and home air comfort features you need; you can go basic or spend a lot more adding whole-house filtration and humidifier, programmable controls and lots of other bells and whistles!
• The brand names are confusing and somewhat misleading, since the big three manufacturers (UTC, Trane and Johnson) control a large portion of the market today. Seek advice from others and look at features, ratings and warranty terms to make the right selection. Shop around and get multiple quotes once you know which brand and equipment specifications you want; with labor, equipment and other factors you can find a wide variance in the prices quoted by local HVAC companies!
• Correct sizing is critical; again you want a system that is neither too large nor too small for you home. If you have a home with more than 2 levels, you may need multiple, smaller air handlers to increase efficiency versus going with one larger unit.
• The three primary considerations in calculating system load are local climate, area to cool and the envelope of your home, which is the interface between the home and the outside world. Within these three categories there are many factors that affect the “load” and “optimal” size and specifications of your air conditioning system.
• Pay attention to the efficiency ratings when purchasing air conditioning system components; know the SEER and AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency) in order to estimate and compare your ongoing operating costs.
• Make a list of “must have” and “nice to have” features when pricing systems; this way you can ask each prospective contractor to provide low and high estimates before deciding how much cash you want to invest!
• Ask about special financing, incentives and rebates and let your contractor know you are shopping around; if you don’t insist on the best price and value you won’t get it. As in many businesses, the supplier who most values your business will demonstrate it through the service, price and satisfaction delivered!
• When upgrading or replacing an existing central air conditioner (especially if the furnace does not need to be replaced), ask several contractors to evaluate which components need to be replaced and which of the existing components could be reused to cut down the total cost; matching system components correctly is very important in this case. Rebates may also be available so be sure to ask.
• Consider purchasing an annual maintenance agreement; you want to have the A/C side of the system inspected in the spring and the heating side checked in the fall.
• Be sure to schedule maintenance during these off peak times of the year to avoid problems when you need your system the most; you don’t want to try and schedule home air conditioning system installation or maintenance during the middle of a heat wave!

If you are building a new wood deck or resurfacing an existing one, you are weighing the options and trying to determine what deck material will be best. You want something that is attractive, easy to maintain and cost effective.

One option to consider instead of a real wood deck surface will be composite products from manufacturers like Trex, Evergrain, TimberTech, CertainTeed, and LP.

Most composite deck materials are manufactured with a blend of recycled plastics such as polyethylene or PVC and wood fiber and sawdust by-products. Introduced to the market in the early 1990s, the initial products were made almost entirely with recycled products and touted as being environmentally friendly.

Characteristics of Composite Deck Materials

Today, in order to engineer longer lasting, more attractive composite deck materials, many manufacturers use recycled and/or virgin polyethylene or PVC, blended with wood flour and cellulose fibers. Each manufacturer uses a secret recipe, claiming that its unique blend will last longer, resist mold, fading, and superior expansion and contraction characteristics.

These composite products definitely give your deck better resistance to insects and rot than real wood and make it less likely to split, crack and weather as quickly. A variety of colors and finishes are available, including redwood, cedar, gray, buckskin and weathered wood. Some of the better products can look almost as good as a real wood deck!

Two basic types of composite deck materials are available; solid and hollow. Solid composite decking looks more like real wood decking but also expands and contracts more due to its mass. Hollow composite decking products may be more susceptible to damage on the job site and after installation.

Benefits of Composite Deck Materials

• Does not deteriorate or rot as quickly as real wood
• Resists fading and heat damage
• Easy to install
• Requires less maintenance than a real wood deck; no sanding, staining, sealing or refinishing is required
• Surface designed to prevent slipping when wet
• Does not splinter or sliver like real wood decking material

Disadvantages of Composite Deck Materials

• Probably only has a useful life of 5 to 10 years; while manufacturers claim otherwise, after about 5 seasons your composite deck will begin to show signs of wear and tear, with some degradation of the surface finish, color fading, scratches and even some warping
• Cannot be refinished, unlike a wood deck, which can be stained, oiled or otherwise refinished; the look you get when you buy it is what you’ll have for the life of your deck surface
• May pose environmental concerns since it can not currently be recycled and, unlike wood deck materials, may last up to 1,000 years in a landfill

Composite Deck Purchasing Tips

• Look at a variety of options before you select a composite decking material; warranties, features and prices vary widely and some products are better suited to certain types of climates than others
• Be sure you understand the manufacturer’s warranty period and specific terms; purchase your materials from a reputable dealer or home improvement center that will be there to back up the products they sell
• Consider whether you want to use deck railing and hardware made by the same manufacturer to match your deck surface or whether you prefer something like a wrought iron or other type of railings
• Get at least 3 separate contractors to provide you quotes if you plan to have your deck installed professionally; check references and compare prices before deciding on a contractor. Even if you are considering installing composite deck material yourself, getting the quotes and talking to the contractors first will help you better determine whether you are up to this project and what pitfalls to avoid!

Composite Deck Installation Tips

• Use the specially made screws meant for fastening composite decking material to prevent the deck material from "mushrooming" around the screw head; nails or regular deck screws are not the way to go!
• Although the directions for these screws say no pre-drilling is required, you should always pre-drill the holes with a drill-countersink combination bit; my own experience is that this is the only way to get the screw heads properly counter sunk without any mushrooming or mounding around the heads for a nice, smooth deck surface.
• Use an impact head on your drill and set the tension loose so that you do not over tighten the screw heads and break completely through the surface; you don’t want them too deep.



• As with wood deck materials, you need to correct any curvature in the boards as you install them; snap chalk lines and tack nails to the deck joist along the chalk lines between the composite deck planks to get the spacing even as you install each one.
• If the span you are covering is longer than the composite deck planks, stagger the joints where ends meet; you can either stagger the joints randomly or use an alternating length to create a uniform pattern.
• Start laying deck planks from the outside edge of the deck and work your way inward toward the house; this way if you need to rip the final board to width the cut side can be more easily concealed.
• You can also leave the ends of your deck a bit ragged and uneven as you install if that helps reduce the number of cuts and notches required; trim the ends with a circular saw after all the boards are installed and use a belt sander to round and smooth the ends.

Composite Deck Maintenance and Cleaning Tips

• Be sure to follow your manufacturer’s care instructions
• You need a gap of at least 3/16 inch between composite deck boards (1/8 inch is common) to ensure that leaves, dust, etc. does not clog the gaps and provide an organic food source for mildew and mold to form
• Use a broom or leaf blower to keep your composite deck free of leaves, dust, pollen, etc.
• Keeping your composite deck clean is the best way to prolong its useful life; periodically clean the surfaces with a cleaning solution and stiff scrub brush, scrubbing in the direction of the grain
• A homemade cleaning solution consisting of 1/3 cup of powered laundry soap, 2/3 cup of tri sodium phosphate, one quart of bleach and three quarts of water works well; you can also buy commercial deck cleaning solutions
• Always test the cleaning solution first on a small, out-of-site area of the deck to be sure it does not discolor or otherwise harm the composite deck boards
• Wet the entire deck surface thoroughly before spraying the cleaning solution on to help it spread evenly and penetrate the mold, mildew and grime; it’s easier to do this in small areas, working your way from one end to the other.
• Let the cleaning solution sit for about 15 minutes, scrub it well and then rinse with a garden hose and spray attachment; repeated scrubbing may be required in heavily soiled areas
• If you use a power washer to rinse the deck boards, be sure to use a very low power setting and attachment or you may harm the composite deck surface and void your warrantee; consult your manufacturer’s care instructions before using a power washer.
• Use a putty knife to remove organic material that collects in joints or gaps
• Use care with the cleaning solution; it is acidic and will harm unprotected plants near the deck as you rinse the deck, splashing overspray onto the foliage

Before you invest in a new central air conditioning system, you might want to take a minute and count how many ceiling fans you have in your home.

Adding a few ceiling fans could be a wise investment to make before laying out the money to install AC in your home!

With the rising cost of home energy fuels these days, ceiling fans in the rooms you spend most of your time in at home can save you money. Improved air circulation will cut home cooling costs regardless whether or not you have air conditioning.

Likely rooms to consider installing efficient ceiling fans include:

Kitchen or Nook – internal heat builds up in the kitchen; a ceiling fan will help cool the room while you cook.

Bedrooms – at night a ceiling fan will bring cooler air into your bedroom, while in the afternoon you’ll nap comfortably through the heat of the day! And the fan’s quiet, humming whirl and circulating air make sleeping so much nicer on a warm summer evening.

Living Room and Family Room – any room you spend a lot of time in will be important to add ventilation; remember that body heat is another source of internal heat, so if you have a lot of people in a single room that ceiling fan makes sense.

Great Room or Game Room – same as living room, except that you may be exercising, playing billiards or other physical activities that increase body temperature; air flow will make you more likely to stick to that workout routine during hot weather!

Den or Home Office – A home office must be comfortable or you don’t get much productive work done. Also, upstairs rooms benefit even more since they often trap warm, stagnate air more than rooms on the ground floor; using ceiling fans to direct air downward helps cool the entire house.

Economics Benefits of Ceiling Fans

Today’s fans are even more efficient, with improvements in motors, controls, blade design and reduced weight. For a few cents a day, you can run an efficient ceiling fan to keep cool air circulating and leave the thermostat a few degrees higher. An inexpensive ceiling fan can run as little as about $40. A moderate price fan will set you back about $100 to $200, but you can also spend over a $1,000 if you try real hard! The options are limitless in ceiling fans today.

When central air conditioning became more popular, many builders stopped installing ceiling fans. But they have regained popularity in recent years, with thousands of styles, sizes, materials and features available today; you can get a ceiling fan for your toddler’s room that looks like a helicopter, a fan with old-fashioned canoe paddles for blades or a sleek modern composite blade fan with integral task or accent lighting. You name it, the industry offers just the size, style and color ceiling fan you want.

During warm weather, if you use ceiling fans along with central AC, you can make a room that is 80 degrees feel more like 72 degrees and save as much as 30 percent on air conditioning costs. Your actual savings depend on many factors, including the number of fans, size of the home, placement of fans, insulation, etc. But you can easily justify the expense of a moderately priced ceiling fan with the savings after 2 to 3 years, not to mention the intangible benefits of staying cool indoors!

Ceiling Fan Blade Features to Look For

Blade Size – most ceiling fans have three, four or five blades. Blades do not affect performance too significantly, except that larger blades will move more air than smaller ones. Expect to pay a higher price for fans with larger/more blades. Common fan blade sizes include 30, 36, 42, 50 and 60 inches and each manufacturer tends to offer 2 or 3 sizes in each product line.

Blade Pitch – the greater the angle of pitch, the more air a fan blade can more; typical ceiling fan blade pitches are from 12 to 16 degrees. Be sure the motor is made for the size and pitch of the fan blades per your manufacturer’s directions.

Blade Construction – quality ceiling fan blades are usually constructed not to warp by bonding together multiple layers of pressurized hardwood. Less expensive blades may be made of particle board which may warp, causing the fan to be noisy and/or wobble.

Blade Finish – ceiling fan blades can be made from a variety of materials and finishes; choose from naturally finished or stained woods, painted enamel, cross laminated veneer (plywood) or less expensive constant-density board veneer. Finishes can make ceiling fan blades look like natural stone, burled camphor, high luster or lacquer paint and a variety of natural wood grains such as oak, walnut, rosewood, cherry and many others. Some fans have reversible blades, with a painted side and a natural wood finish on the other; turn the blades over and it’s like having two fan styles in one! For use outdoors, you can get washable fabric covered blades or easy cleaning acrylic.

Type of Fan Motor – a fan with a die-cast aluminum motor will last long and should run quietly since it resonates less than steel; a die-cast zinc motor can run even smoother and quieter. Look for features such as precision bearing motors for low friction and resistance, a larger stator and multi-speed motor.

Fan Motor Size and Power – the number, pitch, size and speed of blades a fan should use are determined by motor size and power output. If the motor is too small for the blades, it will work too hard and may vibrate and run inefficiently. Warranty terms and period is a good sign of the quality of a ceiling fan motor; a high quality motor should come with a lifetime warranty.

Motor Housings and Finishes – most ceiling fan body housings are made using either die cast or stamped steel construction. Especially with a longer down rod and larger fan blades, the die cast fan housing quiets motor noise and adds stability since it is heavier and more solid; a lighter weight stamped steel housing tends to be noisier and may wobble.

Wall Controls

Ok, you use to just have a pull chain, right? Well no more; today you can select from wall switches that turn your ceiling fan on and off, adjust fan speed and turn integrated lamps on and off.

Remote Controls

If reaching the fan is hard due to the height of your ceiling fan or furniture below, you might like a remote control; an invaluable convenience in a larger living space such as a great room. Today, some lighting control systems can be programmed to set lighting levels, window blinds and shades and ceiling fans at the touch of a button or on an automated timer control.

How far over the top do you want to go with a ceiling fan? The sky … or a very high ceiling … is the limit these days.

Read More About Ceiling Fans:

• Ceiling Fan Selection
  
• Ceiling Fan Installation

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They work by increasing air movement, helping your body lose heat.

Installing fans can also drastically reduce your air conditioning costs, since they consume approximately half as much electricity as air conditioners.

Turning your fan on and your air conditioner down a few degrees will result in an overall cost savings.

And with all the designs and options available today, a quality ceiling fan can add to your room decor, matching nicely with the materials, design elements and colors.

Where to Install a Ceiling Fan

Ceiling fans aren’t just for living rooms anymore. Designs featuring sports, carousels, and disco balls make appealing choices for kids ceiling fans in bedrooms or playrooms.

Outdoor ceiling fans can help create comfortable porches, even in high heat. Outdoor models are built to withstand wet conditions, although they should only be installed in covered areas.

Of course, plenty of models are designed with living or family rooms in mind and the wide variety of styles integrate seamlessly with any décor. Whether you are looking for tropical or nautical style, kids ceiling fans or outdoor ceiling fans, there is a fan for you.

Selecting a Ceiling Fan

With all of the options out there, the process of selecting a fan can be daunting. But it’s easy if you break it down into three simple steps:

1. Select the size.
2. Select the features.
3. Select the design.

Select the size – Ceiling fans come in sizes from 29 to 54 inches, with 52-inches being the most common.

To determine the appropriate size for your room, you’ll need to know the square footage of your room:

Select the features – Fans come with a variety of features that might appeal to you. If the lighting in your room isn’t sufficient, you might want to select a lighted model. Some versions come with built-in heaters for year-round use. If the fan will be installed in a wet or humid location, you’ll need to select a model specifically rated for those conditions. Fans come with UL “damp” or “wet” ratings to aid you in your selection.

Select the design – Fan designs are available to suit any room. By limiting yourself to models that fit your size and feature needs, you can easily target your search for the right fan.

The following list of manufacturers can help you get started in your search:

Casablanca – one of the top ceiling fans, made to last and designs galore, but get your checkbook or credit card ready if you buy a Casablanca.

Craftmade – these guys make some really unique fans like the Flying Tiger airplane model pictured here.

Deco Breeze – makes some very cool decorative floor standing fans.

Emerson – great selection and 10 year old reputation makes Emerson a value brand when it comes to ceiling fans.

Fanimation – offers innovative designs and the Air Shadow line with retractable blades.

Hunter – a household name, Hunter makes great ceiling fans in a wide range of price points, styles and options.

Matthews – unique, ultra sleek, modern fan designs look more like works of art than ceiling fans.

Minka Aire – another brand with so many great styles, Minka gives their fans a real designer look.

Modern Fan Company – as the name implies, you’ll find a great variety of contemporary and modern styles in this lineup.

Monte Carlo – from finishes to styles Monte Carlo offers 10 decorative styles and over 80 collections.

Once you’ve found the right fan, select a mounting system. You have four options:

1. Standard mount – These have a 3-5 inch downrod (the pipe that connects the fan to the ceiling), and are a good choice if your ceiling is flat and neither abnormally high or low.
2. Extended mount – If you have a high ceiling (over 9 feet), the extended mount comes with a longer downrod. Choose the length that will hang the fan approximately 8-9 feet high.
3. Flush mount – If your ceiling is low (under 8 feet), a flush mount will install the fan right on the ceiling. Note that some fans, called “huggers,” are designed for low ceilings and may or may not require you to purchase a flush mount.
4. Sloped mount – If your ceiling is vaulted or angled, you’ll need to purchase a sloped mount.

Energy Star Ceiling Fans

Fans with the Energy Star rating are approximately 50% more efficient than other models, translating to more money in your pocket.

Energy Star fans with built-in lights also require less frequent bulb changes.

If your fan doesn’t include lighting and you plan to install some, you might consider buying an Energy Star-rated kit.

Installing a fan with light fixture included will save time and cost to install since you may not need a separate ceiling light fixture in some rooms.

With some models, you can even reverse the blades in Winter to push warm air downward and make rooms with high ceilings a little warmer.

Read more about ceiling fans:

• Ceiling Fan Benefits & Features
  
• Ceiling Fan Installation

Buy Now and Save: